Home built bike stuff

well that’s different!

CNC machined lugs, dropouts, cranks and chainring from 7075 and then nickel plated. Tubes on this are OTS but future frames will have tubes made in house. It’s not crazy light but he’s keeping things conservative right now. I think my frame which is basically a 60cm is around 1300g but a smaller frame without ISP is in the 1000-1100g I think.

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buuuut… an integrated seat mast/seat tube could be tuned for comfort since it passes continuous thru the lug, total weight probably less than a standard post system and potentially better characteristics

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Thats a really sexy bike. Is the DS dropout threaded but not bored out? How does derangler go? Is this a standard I’m just too out of date to recognize?

Yeah it’s a blind threaded hole on the dropout. The hanger mounts on the inside. Not a standard really just an application of a 12x142 thru axle and a typical hanger geometry.

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getting the chainring tooth profile right for the Ekar chain seems spicy

are the chainstays and seatstays both ~14mm round straight tubes?

5/8” on both.

I think bigger chainstays would be better but for all road or gravel with shortish chainstays space is limited when you draw a straight line.

His filament winding rig and process is nearly dialed in so that could make for some improvements in that area, more options for wall thickness and choice of fiber. The off the shelf tubes are largely all low tier standard mod. You can get some really high zoot tow preg fiber in North America that is otherwise export controlled.

I’m not sure how he did the ekar profile, we ordered a sample to reverse engineer. His business is pattern making and tool and die and of lot of that is reverse engineering complex features.

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Good timing - I’m about to start a new frame and I’m going to try 5/8 stays on it.

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Thank you for posting this. I’m embarrassed to admit that I didn’t already know what a quill seatpost is. I imagined it worked like a quill stem, somehow, but perfect photo to demonstrate!

@igor can u make a non problem solvers DT shifter mount for bikes without mounts

This is relevant to your email blast today

So funny you mention that. I found a guy that makes nice ones yesterday. Ill look into it.

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PTP?
Also, need in 31.8 and maybe 34.9 future

Actually yea. I only just found them, but the quality seems good.

Had a fork that was drilled in the back but not the front but wanted my dynamo light in a specific spot.




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That’s pretty cool! Is it bouncy at all?

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Thank you - it’s very stable actually. And the wires wrap around the curve nicely.

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that looks like a pretty clean sloppy toppy with a twist. well bent, my friend

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I “sentcutsent” a two bottle cage “ski” that uses the lower cage for stuff rather than bottles. Obviously the Wolf’s Toot B-Rad exists, but this one that I’ve made is more expensive, fits a narrower use case, and will require further prototypes to get right. On the plus side, this doesn’t require any other proprietary mount shenanigans.



The four bottle cage holes are threaded. The others I unfortunately specced undersize and have to drill out to get it to mount to the frame. The thickness is 6mm, which is probably too much, but I just riffed on the B-Rad there (this has considerably more material). I will also probably have to get a raised seat tube cage, which I don’t mind. With the bottles I use, the ski is too long for the seat tube anyway.

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:tarckbear: :tarckbear: :tarckbear:

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So I tried to make a v2, but apparently the design I sent was “too drillium” and the parts warped while cutting. I stepped down to 4mm thick aluminum which probably contributed.

Anyway, a significant cost driver on these is the thread tapping (the smol holes in the design). If I went without tapped holes I’d have to space it off the bottle studs enough to fit nuts on the underside. I’m kind of ambivalent about that. It’d make it cheaper to do Ti versions, but I don’t know how thin I can go before it isn’t stiff enough.