you can hand tap two holes in 4 mm aluminum in 2 minutes with a $12 tool
Nevermind
Or, like laser cutting, I could… not?
Just saying let them do the hard part but don’t pay them extra to do the easy part
You could go for Waterjet which wouldn’t have the same heat distortion but the edges wouldn’t be as nice. Or go for the thicker material and have it milled out. Could keep some ribs on there for stiffness while saving weight too. Granted that’d be more money.
Refresh my memory of what it’s for and I can maybe make a recommendation for Ti. Grade of Ti doesn’t really matter for stiffness but Grade 5 has a much higher fatigue rate.
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This the piece in place, basically end up with a full water bottle cantilevered above the frame’s bottle bolts.
Ah. You should 3D print a little saddle that bolts to the front of your adapter to take some vertical load off the plate. Possibly secure with a zip tie or something. Then you could get significantly thinner I’d imagine. I’ll take a look in our titanium section at work and see how flexy some of our thinner sheets are.
That’s the way of the wolf tooth setup. For this version, I’m not sure it’s necessary, but if I thin it, I think you’re right. I’d mostly like to avoid the extra doohickeys. Another idea I had was to have it made out of thin titanium and bend the edges to 90*. It could then sort of hide the hardware inside the upside down U channel
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I forgot to check our titanium stash. If you bend it you could could likely get away with around 1/16” Cp-2 for sure. We build instrument guards out of .05” and they hold up well and are plenty stiff for a water bottle. I usually get those made locally at a place called Ballard sheet metal works since their pricing is usually a bit better. I also really like protolabs for formed sheet metal parts as well as OSHcut. I haven’t used send cut send, yet but I keep getting ads for them. I definitely wouldn’t want to fuck around trying to form a relatively expensive piece of Ti. You don’t even really need a full 90. Probably like 60 would be nice. FWIW I’d probably go for a 1.5x mtl thickness for the inside radius of the bend.
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So I stalled on further cage mount revisions, but in the meantime, I made my own Mac Ride spacer.
My BIL bought one of their seats, and it’s great. I want to use it on my bikes when I watch my nephew, but shipping this spacer alone is like 25 bucks… so sendcutsend it is. The drawing on the Mac Ride website is easy enough to trace, and it turns out three individual 0.125" thick spacers work fine with the Mac Ride steerer clamp (3.2mm vs 3/3.5mm).
You can use the SCS part builder to design two different washers: both with center holes 1.14", outers 1.42" (for the single center spacer) and 1.66" (for the top and bottom spacers). No pics yet, but I didn’t get it ano’d black so it’s a total eyesore anyway.
I bought 4 sets but only reasonably need two, if anyone wants one.
cool man!
i am enjoying the last week of my kid fitting the mac ride. once school starts, there is no ride- it’s across the street. but right now, it’s camp about 2 miles away.
moving on from mac ride is something that will make me cry
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That’s neat. I never actually needed extras because we ended up getting 2 seats so that gave us 4 spacers which ended up being enough. I figured if I ever needed more I’d just make some at work out of Delrin or PET-P.
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Whoah. How did you make these?
And are they two different materials?
I just used the configurator on their website ^. Everything is the same 7075 aluminum.
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