I also realized I didn’t post a clear shot of my reproduced rim stickers on the rim:
I found a reference image in an online used bike parts site and was able to lay it out pretty easily in Illustrator. Found a vector of the original Specialized logo, and the font used in the smaller black text is Futura, naturally.
This is the nerd shit I am here for
Had some time for bottom bracket blunders…
Turns out “normal width” is 73mm in this case! @jimmythefly called it and I forgot to heed his advice.
I happened to have a 68mm 113mm spindle UN54 on hand, so I stuck that in there like a dummy without measuring the shell, and here’s where I ended up:
Ope!
That’s not gonna work!
So I went down to the LBS and picked up a UN300 at the correct width and still 113 spindle:
Here’s the NDS:
Not sure if I like that!
I have a UN55 coming in with a 118mm spindle which will probably be the sweet spot, but I’m going to mock it up just to see how the chainline is with this 113 in there. Even though it clears and there’s probably not too much of a chance that it will hit, I think it absolutely will hit under load with flexing/stressing and whatnot.
I got those cheap 26er wheels off the Trek site to put on da wife 26er that sits in storage. But I kinda want to buy another set for a project like this. Feel like I just want an excuse to keep wrenching!
Always Be Dithering
What cranks? Seems plenty meaty if you wanted to take a file to the backside and shave a bit off for clearance. But I agree it’ll probably hit under hard pedaling. How’s the clearance for the chainrings?
I just met a kindred soul yesterday, selling some of my old 26er stuff to this dude and he also has a garage full of bikes and it was very difficult to actually sell him my stuff vs. arrange some sort of trading of parts between us.
I had that same thought! If the NDS crank arm was just more straight or not as thicc, it might be fine.
Edit: Drive side is completely fine. It’s a triple, but it’s going to be a 1x8 and I’ll run the ring on the outside, hence the 113 spindle. Lots of room for the 38t ring, but would get close with a larger one. I would not be able to put anything on the inner positions, but I don’t plan to.
I’m not especially attached to this one. It’s a Sugino AC, and I have no idea if that’s a “good” crankset or not, it was really just the cheapest option I found that looked decent from a reputable company.
I’m not opposed to grinding if the chainline ends up being off with the 118, but I’d rather avoid it if I can. BBs are cheap enough and it’s already on its way.
I’ve got a build I’ve been “working on” for a buddy for 6 years where I might be able to make use of one the surplus.
Separately, I also have similar headset shenanigans going on. I stripped that RockHopper and was going to use the headset off that, but it was pretty crappy - like bearings were falling out of the cages … all corroded and stuff. On top of that, the crown race is 27mm, and the fork I got is 26.4 of course, so I bought a Tange Levin with the correct specs.
I’d love to put an old G Master on there at some point. I don’t know if I’m a Chris Bling guy, but maybe some day if I can find a 2nut or gripnut for like $100.
I might steal this paint scheme for my next bike.
it’s so hard to get good metallic fades though, and then you need matching ano parts
Some Trek SingleTracks, Mountain Track and MultiTracks of the same era had basically the same colourway:
hmm maybe just do the purple→green chameleon paint instead
In addition to the purple skewers, I’m doing some tasteful / tiny gold hits here and there. Just small parts. It’s not like I particularly love gold - it can absoultely get gaudy, it’s just really complimentary in this case. Everything else will be silver.
a uni friend whose dad owned a body shop had a slammed integra painted thusly; it was such a late 90s-early 00s time capsule
Hell yeah. I worked in a body shop starting around '97 when I was 13-17 that did higher-end custom paint and we churned out a lot of those as well. It was mostly 2-color Kameleon Kolor (from House of Kolor). I don’t know what they did in some jobs because every so often they’d do one that looked green to gold to purple which was extra wild.
We had a custom interior guy in the shop for a bit as well, and I got some bike seats done, and frames painted by pros with automotive paint. Nice perk for a teenager. Good times … good times.
Hahaha … OK, so like I said in the last meaningful update, the headset I intended to use off the RockHopper donor bike turned out to be crap, AND the crown race wouldn’t work on the fork I have anyway, because it’s JIS (27mm race) and the fork is not (26.4 crown race).
As it turns out, the StumpJumper frame wants a JIS headset too.
I got the alloy Tange Levin in yesterday (which is beautiful), measure the headtube at ~29.6mm ID give or take, and in my naiveté about tolerances, I try to press the EC30 cups in there. Nope!
So I’m like WTF, do some research, and know what I’m dealing with now.
My choices are:
#1 is pretty much not an option.
There’s also the possibility of just keeping the 26.4 crown race on the fork and running a JIS headset on that, but I think that would be weird and not good long-term.
I’m personally leaning towards reaming since I don’t think it would be that bad to do (edit: the headtube wall is a solid 5mm), and it would open up a lot more options down the road, like if I do want to get a Chris King gripnut or 2nut.
I hate it all.
What would you do?
Get a JIS headset and a 26.4 crown race?
I’d worry about the bearings and race not really matching up though since the JIS headset bearings expect a 27mm race.
Is it one of those things where it’s “close enough” that’s not an issue? Just feels wrong is all, but so does reaming…
it’s a headset. it never even does a full rotation. we should have replaced them with plastic bushings ages ago.
no one has ever worn one out for doing the thing bearings are supposed to do.
