I’m surprised nobody on here has machined a delrin or UHMWPE bushing set that replaces a loose-ball array
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Instead we get headsets that are too loose because we don’t want to index the bearings into the races, making the front end of the bike feel crappy
The $$$ ceramic speed SLT bearings are basically bushings with balls interspersed in there
They only turn like 20°
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And more friction would improve your ride
Well thanks for bringing me back down to Earth, dudes.
I already banged the race on, but I’d need another one anyway since I’ll be returning the wrong-size headset, so I have that on order now as well as the JIS version of the same headset coming from Track Supermarket since that was cheaper than Retrogression, even with shipping.
More waiting!
I would think if you sourced one from another Tange, the bearing race would be the same size between the two crown diameters. Bearings tend to be more standard, meaning 0.6 mm wouldn’t be make a huge difference.
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Yeah i was just overthinking … my brain is terrible.
I have the race from an older Campy headset on the Kestrel fork that’s in my Pista right now mated with a newer model (also campy) headset, and I didn’t spiral out when doing that. They’re the same size in that case, but same concept.
Speaking of interchangeable parts … in fun news, I copped a gold Salsa Flip-Lock seatpost clamp which came in today.
You might notice the rod sticking out the other side.
It seems like you can’t get the old Flip-Off seat post binders anymore, and since it’s basically just a short skewer, my plan was to get an M5 threaded rod and cut that to size, which I have yet to do, so that’s what that is. Because I am who I am, I’m also going to put a sleeve around the center of it to cover the threads, which will just be a cut-down stainless capillary tube with 5mm ID and 6mm OD. Much easier than trying to chase threads down a long skewer (which is where my mind went first).
I picked up 3 silver Salsa skewers, and would have been content having purple ones on the wheels and silver on the seatpost, but I’d search eBay every now and then for gold ones, and the clamp popped up so why not.
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After about 30 years of working on bikes, I finally got some kind of stand.
This is a $20 wall or bench mount jawn from amazawn. There’s another piece it’s supposed to have to make it a right angle, and I will probably figure out some kind of ad-hoc solution to install it that way since it can’t stay where it is long-term or I’ll bash into it, but this is nice. It’s a little flexy due to the way it’s mounted but better than working on it on the workbench or floor.
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Clamp on the seatpost, not the tube.
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Clamp tubes to make them aero.
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clamp the seat tube extra tight so your seatpost can’t fall in and get lost forever.
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Put a hotdog down the seat tube first. Then the chair pole will have a snack if it gets stuck.
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Haha love that.
But there we go, why not!?
I thought I had some oddball seat tube diameter but all the lore says it’s supposed to be 28.6, and it ended up going in there fine after I gave it a couple passes with some 400 grit sandpaper at the collar. Pretty gross in there. I also put this other cheap “Zoom” post down there first to kinda pre-run it. The Thomson slid right into that sloppy pre-stretched hole.
I should have just kept the non-Thomson one in there but whatever, it’s gonna end up in there anyway and I wanted to see it.
U gonna do a hite rite on there
203 did you weigh the frame before you started putting parts in it?
No, but I just did and after subtracting the weights of the parts I have on, I got 1775 g / 3.91 lb
Edit: That lines up perfectly with this report:
https://www.mtbr.com/threads/anyone-know-stumpjumper-m2-frame-weight.267192/#:~:text=Back%20when%20I%20was%20an%20uber-weight%20weenie%2C%20I%20weighed%20my%2017"%201992%20M2%20at%203.9%20pounds.
Mine measures dead on 18" from the center of the spindle to top of seat tube.
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