I was lucky enough to actually get one! This particular one is new and the mic aspect of it doesn’t really work. Just squeals no matter what. I thought it was feedback from having it too close to the speaker, but it still does it even when it’s as far away as it can be. Pretty disappointing and I’ll probably give it to the kid. You can find them under the Sunlite brand though.
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Slack chain!?
This is a SRAM PC-870 8-speed chain with 144 links. None removed yet.
I feel like I should take at least one link out of it.
Also I think I made the housing too short here. Maybe it’s fine? What do the team of experts say?
Here’s what things look like on the 16t and the chain is straight:
that chain is not going to stay on that wheel.
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Definitely not! It was slipping off when I was gently turning it.
I’m just not sure how far forward the cage is supposed to be, but I’m doing research…
Feels like maybe when it’s on the 16t it should look how it does when it’s on the 24.
you aren’t going to get it to work 1x with that ring and deraileur.
we have all tried and failed at this. put the front on or get 1x running gear if you want to really ride it.
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Housing is too short
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Comes in purple
yikes on that price, and I even readied myself for a big Paul number.
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I’d sooner get the right drivetrain parts than the Paul doodad. It’s cool looking, but isn’t it solving a problem that wouldn’t exist with the proper setup to begin with?
Good to know these exist though. It’s not something I’d have searched for.
I’ve put together at least two 5 or 6 speed bikes with just whatever existing chainring and a cheap freewheel in the back, and it was fine, so I thought nothing of this. Didn’t think to research what actually went into a legit 1x build. To me it was just “run a single chainring in front and send it.” Learned a ton through this though!
I had never heard of a narrow-wide chainring before a couple months ago. I also now know what a clutch derailer is and that it’s a necessary component in a setup like this, so thanks for that comment @jame5on - appreciate the knowledge.
Here’s where my head’s at . .. “really ride it” is definitely open to interpretation. I obviously dont want to drop my chain, but also it’s an 8-speed, and I’m not riding rough trails or the streets of Brooklyn. For now, I’ll get the chain length right, see how it does, and go from there. If it sucks, I’ll deal with it and try a narrow-wide ring first, then a guide if that’s not sufficient.
Because of the stupid wheels I chose that happened to have an oddball hub that’s its own standard, it’s not like I can just get a different cassette in the rear or just get a different derailer that would mate well with it. I’d have to get a whole new modern wheelset, or at least one with some kind of standard freehub on the rear, then where do you stop? It’s definitely going to be ever changing, but I’m curious to see how it does as-is for now. I think one thing I have working in my favor is an excellent chainline.
Worst case, it’s a 38 x 16 singlespeed with a bunch of extra unused parts on it.
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Counterpoint: I’ve run 1x8 with no special 1x parts and it worked just fine with no dropped chains. Maybe I just got lucky.
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That’s my hope!
I feel like I see it all the time, but maybe I’m not looking close enough.
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Can’t you think of something more to dither on? I don’t want this build to end.
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Oh, I have a somewhat unique bag for the front rack.
The path to its mounting solution is long and dithered if you want to know about that.
I had a 1x8 setup on my 90s MTB back in the day, before narrow-wide chainrings existed. Your chain ring really should be on the inside of the spider, where the chainline typically is on that vintage. I don’t remember if you’re using a road or MTB double. The MTB would have a different chainline than the road crankset.
A bash guard or a shaved down chainring in the outside position would add more security and let you use your swanky bolts. You could run a K Edge on the inner side for extra ano bling. [edit] I thought K Edge had a clampyboi, but I am mistaken. This is the OG:
[/edit]
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I’m into a bashguard, but if I did that, I’d have to get yet another bottom bracket to bring things out at least another 3-4mm per side.
It’s a Sugino AC 110 bcd triple - not sure if it’s road or MTB.
I think the chainline is really good though. I used a BB with a much shorter spindle than the bike would have had so i could run the chainring on the outer position and have it work. It’s totally straight when it’s on the middle gear in the cassette (not technically the true middle since its an 8-speed but I’ll probably never be on the 11t).
Looks like there are some gold K-Edge chain catchers out there though. Braze-on version, but I’m sure a clamp could be rigged up.
The 73x113 BB you have is what it came with originally, but in a triple. The cranks at the time had a chainline of 47.5-50 mm. You could measure what you have and see if it’s in that range.
I had to up it to 118mm due to crank arm clearance.
Just measured ~48.6mm
Edit: I could see myself ordering one of those Paul chain keepers and justifying it by putting it on Afterpay if I have too many hipster IPAs over the weekend.
Delightful old website
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First test ride down the block!
Dropped the chain! . .. which will surprise no one.
Since the last time, I took 2 link pairs out of the chain, made the derailer cable housing longer, finally refinished the NDS crank arm and put it on, and installed pedals.
The astute observer might also notice that the front brake is unhooked. I didn’t have the tires filled up all the way when I set up the brake a couple days ago, and a pad was rubbing the tire now that it’s fully inflated.
Bug report:
- Dropped chain
- Shifter isn’t perfectly dialed in
- Front brake rubbing tire
- Front brake squeaking when applied
- Chain droops across the top when coasting
- Cranks move while walking the bike
Nothing that can’t be dealt with. The chain isn’t lubed yet either which may be influencing things, but to what degree I do not know. I might also take another link out of the chain.
Gonna have to read up on the indexed shifter and how to get that right, but really it’s not that bad - like a normie would just ride the bike and accept it / think nothing of it.
The freehub not moving super freely is probably my chief concern. Maybe I need to back off the cup/cone a little back there.
Might need to raise the saddle a couple mm, but it’s comfy as-is too. Feels great and that would be a minor adjustment. Bars are spot on.
Overall it was badass. Runs drives and stops. Gears are great!
Edit: Advice welcome!
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