[quote=“conor”]
another pbp fixed gear.
(one of my all-time favorites.)[/quote]
What a beautiful bike. Do you have a link to the flickr page? I can’t figure out how to extract it from the image url.
PBP fixee above looks awesome. Anyone know what it is?
So I’m thinking of building a rando/touring frame. Here’s what I’ve got so far:
-1" threadless
-cantilevers
-long horizontal dropouts
-50/36 chainrings
-13-30 cassette
-front rack
-dt shifter bosses so I’m not stuck with brifters
- clearance for 30’s and fenders
-36h wheels (maybe a dynamo?)
-my name on the downtube
Not sure which group to run, maybe Veloce or Rival. Also not sure if I want to install s&s couplers since this’ll be the first frame I build and I don’t want to waste almost 300$ worth of couplers. Your input is welcome.
i don’t have the flickr, but the bike’s a kirk. it’s owned by some dude from new york.
lemme try to find the write-up.
edit: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lazzarello … 666679278/
this isn’t where i got the photo, but this link was posted in the pbp thread about another fixed pbp effort.
it’s a kirk.
all the dudes on the serotta forums are all about him.
that bike is badass but the chain tension is killing me.
couplers seem like a waste unless you’ll get your money’s worth out of them in a year (to me). and that’s a lot of flying around with your bike.
This we can agree on. Those wheels are jackass on that bike.[/quote]
Depends on if you rando for speed or just for endurance. I’d personally rather have 36 hole 3x, but there’s not a whole lot wrong with some lower spoke count. You’re not loading your bike with 30lb of gear. The only disadvantage would be lack of repairability and since we’re accepting cf frames, I think we can take some more modern wheels. Though I will draw the line at any low spoke count wheels on a steel/non-modern frame. That’s just dumb.
I got to see a Kirk cross bike at one of the local races. It had the bent seat and chainstays like the one above. It was beautiful in person. Once back home I looked up his site, great work but at a big cost.
It is ten pages long, but the show your touring bike thread on BF C&V has some very nice touring/rando type bikes.
[quote=“jacques”]PBP fixee above looks awesome. Anyone know what it is?
So I’m thinking of building a rando/touring frame. Here’s what I’ve got so far:
-1" threadless
-cantilevers
-long horizontal dropouts
-50/36 chainrings
-13-30 cassette
-front rack
-dt shifter bosses so I’m not stuck with brifters
- clearance for 30’s and fenders
-36h wheels (maybe a dynamo?)
-my name on the downtube
Not sure which group to run, maybe Veloce or Rival. Also not sure if I want to install s&s couplers since this’ll be the first frame I build and I don’t want to waste almost 300$ worth of couplers. Your input is welcome.[/quote]
Throw in a nice waxed canvas saddlebag and I would call it good. I would take silver Veloce. Where is the frame coming from?
Are we talking full name, middle initial, with a nickname? You need to be more specific. The weight of the paint can mean a difference of literally seconds over the course of a 400k event.
Air Canada charges $50 each way on domestic flights and $100 each way internationally, so assuming I’ll visit my parents this summer and go to Japan that’ll be $300 right there. I’m kind of leaning towards getting them since if the frame is really a fuck up I can always just take the couplers from it and use them again.
[quote=“bigmatt”]I got to see a Kirk cross bike at one of the local races. It had the bent seat and chainstays like the one above. It was beautiful in person. Once back home I looked up his site, great work but at a big cost.
It is ten pages long, but the show your touring bike thread on BF C&V has some very nice touring/rando type bikes.[/quote]
Yeah, I just checked out his website. Frames with that option start at $3200! Will check out that thread.
I’m building it myself.
“jacques”
I wouldn’t do S&S on your first build jacques. Everything I’ve read says your second is gonna be like 10 times better. If anything I’d do a ghetto coupling system like this:
[quote]The seatpost holds the upper section together. Loosen the two binders and pull the seatpost out and the sections separate. Similar to the Ritchey and Dahon system.
The lower joint has another binder. The BB tube has a stub that fits into the downtube. The stub is a piece of seatpost that is lathe turned to the correct slip-fit and JB-Welded into the lower tube. Alternatively, you could silver braze a steel stub in the same place, but I have enough confidence in J-B Weld that this won’t come apart unless I want it to(with a torch).
When I coped the downtube I left as much of the thick butt as possible around this joint. [/quote]
http://www.flickr.com/photos/jerryw62/Check out his other photos.
I want some paragon sliding dropouts on my dream build, but they’re too expensive to throw them on my first frame.
you know, if i could have one semi-modern audax bike that fits me very very well, i’d get rid of all my other bikes in a heart beat.
something nice, not gaudy but leaning towards the functional side of things.
i’d probably have 2 drivetrains also, so i could run it fixed as well.
wow. i’m wet just thinking about it.
it’s one add on that never loses it’s resale value though. also, you have to think about the cost of a hard case and all that jazz.
EDIT: didn’t read the fourth page before I asked what make the kickass fixed rando bike was… it’s a Kirk.
Bike and rider sharing a moment.
This we can agree on. Those wheels are jackass on that bike.[/quote]
Depends on if you rando for speed or just for endurance. I’d personally rather have 36 hole 3x, but there’s not a whole lot wrong with some lower spoke count. You’re not loading your bike with 30lb of gear. The only disadvantage would be lack of repairability and since we’re accepting cf frames, I think we can take some more modern wheels. Though I will draw the line at any low spoke count wheels on a steel/non-modern frame. That’s just dumb.[/quote]
I’m thinking standard 32h/32h OP on DA type wheels which are lighter than a lot of “lightweight” wheelsets in any case. This would be for a light rando bike for brevets and whatnot.
Jacques, if you’re going to go to the expense of building a frame, you’ll probably want to build several. I wouldn’t build anything I really cared about for the first frame. Also, I don’t think horizontal dropouts would be a great idea for a rando bike. I’m thinking that changing flats with fenders would be more difficult.
horizontal dropouts != track ends!
genetic difference here!
and, wtf is up with those sleeves that guy has?
if he’s anything like any of my friends that started getting tattooed at an early age…he’s gone for the blackout cover up.
so i e-stalk jp weigle and a few other guys via flickr.
check this fork jp just made for an old frame, the rack is nice.
made it with more rake so that it can handle a load in the front. frame and fork is about to be for sale but seat tube is too short by about 2cm.
chekc this pic out from witcomb in '78. check out the car radio in the background hooked up to that speaker. lol.
That is a manly vise right there.