Oh yeah, should be fine. Also, dyno BOB trailer? Really?
You do you, man.
Will require some fuckery calculating spoke lengths since the left vs. right flanges are effectively offset by 1/4 hole instead of 1/2 hole
ETA oh if radial it probably doesn’t matter much
I was really contemplating a dynamo in a Bob trailer but I can’t figure out how to make a 20” wheel fit in a 16” trailer.
Put the dynamo into a 16" wheel. Problem solved (at least until you get fast enough so you start blowing up the tail lights.)
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don’t some shimano dynos come with a voltage limiter for rear light only use?
I think the UR705 hub I bought came with one, might still have it if someone’s interested in it.
sp sv-9 is designed for small wheels - I am running it on my 26" and it puts out less than ideal voltage with the rpms. I don’t care because the lights on my commuter are for visibility not vision and it works fine.
2 birds, one stone: add suspension AND wheelbase!
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our bike scienists were so fixated on what they could do, they forgot to ask if this is something they should do.
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Great thanks! Trying to get back here more. Miss this crew
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I just laced my first wheel. It took me ages. It’s not tensioned or anything yet. Used an existing wheel to guide me. Hub has logos all over it so I didn’t bother trying to align the valve hole with any particular spot on it.
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Looks fantastic! Yes SONs are pretty ambiguous about where the “label” is
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maybe align with the plug?
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plug spins
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oh right
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broken clock
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boooo? yay? time will tell
Freehub engagement is my favorite thing about DT hubs. Increasing to 36T is a really nice improvement.
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I wish they’d give it a slightly different name, thus heading off years of “is that a pre-23 hub?” or “this 350 end cap doesn’t work with that hub but this one does.”
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Especially since they’re using model numbers already!
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