what was wrong with yours?
May be able to get free shipping, too. SHIP-D45FG5-D6Y7-B code just sent to me. Not sure if they are fancy enough to tie them to emails or not.
Lol guess I should have read the whole thread before buying it. I bought the last one they had.
@lox, my rim cracked at the spoke holes but it was the rear on my Bullitt. You’ll be fine. Probably.
'Bout to swap out a rim which I haven’t really done in over a decade and I wondered if there were any tricks to doing so easily. Found this:
Zip ties… Genius.
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masking tape is also an option
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This is what I have always used, or painters tape if that was in the garage at the time.
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I think the last time I did this, I just wrestled two wheels for a couple hours.
Zip ties hold the world together
I used the electrical tape that I didn’t like enough to use for finishing tape.
Wheel is built. I was in a hurry and left .020” of radial runout. Does that make me evil?
You monster.
Finally getting around to measuring the tension on the front Jones wheel and it’s kind of all over the place. The disc side is anywhere between 520-900N with one outlier at at 250N. The non-disc side is anywhere between 525-950N with a couple of outliers at 380N and 450N. All those are approximate and measured with a Wheel Fanatyk tensiometer. The front hub flange distance from center is symmetrical. Radial and lateral trueness is good, but I kind of don’t expect it to stay that way for long if I ride it as-is. I’m already getting some noise from at least one of the spokes just riding it up and down the street, which is why I’m measuring the tension to begin with.
I know that even tension is more important than trueness, but how do I start fixing this without totally messing it up like I did with the last wheel I tried “fixing”.
Jones doesn’t list a tension recommendation for their alloy rims. What should I shoot for there, 1000N? Yeah I should just email them about that.
I’d detension them all then evenly bring them back up to tension. If you try and just adjust it now you’re going to spend more time chasing your own tail than if you just detensioned it to start.
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Not the answer I want but the answer I need.
I brought tension up on some of the outliers so they’re more in line with the others and it made no difference.
I’m not that great at building wheels and even I can do better than this.
These:
Plus these:
15g/16g spokes and spoke head washers.
I’ve had these old Shimano high flange hubs for years after I cut them out of the original 27" wheels from my Super le Tour. Finally got around to building them.
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How many cogs on the freewheel?
These are 120mm, so 5 speed.
Have a Motobecane with Huret dropouts and a Jubile short cage dangler.
If the wee Huret can handle it I’m planning on 46/30 + 14/28.
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I haven’t built a wheel for probably 20 years, and am thinking I might have a crack at doing the one for my sram Automatix coaster hub wheel.
The spoke holes in the hub are real big. Like, 3 mms. Does anyone have any advice on spoke gauge -
Should I go fatter?
No butts?
Do I need washers for the spoke heads?
Is the fact that I should be coaster braking with this wheel relevant?
Is 3x the right cross number?
Is this the best calculator for me?
I picked up a NOS Mavic X618 for it. A little bit excited.
Calculator: big fan of Freespoke: the spoke calculator
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most rims wont accommodate more than a regular old 14ga nipple. many hubs will accommodate a 13ga spoke
big kid single butt might be nice though you probably don’t need it from a strength standpoint
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