I use Tesa 4288 and order off eBay. Pretty sure that’s the specific tape Light Bicycle recommended. There are several others with similar material properties though.
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[quote=“halbritt, post:2628, topic:21898”]
There are hundreds of others with similar material properties though.
[/quote]…
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Lol I asked my buddy what tape he uses and he says hold on a sec and comes back with a stack of spools of DT tape and gives them all to me, so I guess I don’t need the Tessa stuff now 
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I got a couple of these Ryde rims from the nude beach because a bunch of old-head wheel builders on the facebook wheel building group recommended them to me to replace my cracked Ryno Lite (which I’m still riding). They do indeed seem like very nice, very beefy rims. The nipple holes are nicely chamfered to match the spoke angles. I have high hopes that I can build a wheel with this rim that’ll last more than a year under my bakfiets. My only complaint is that they’re boring black anodized. Maybe I’ll have the spare one stripped and re-anoed.
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Scuff and spray bomb it before you build it up.
You know you want to.
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I think I will!
What colors should I get?
Let Roli pick it out.
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Good plan.
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are these Enve hubs that use DT 180 internals troublesome?
seems like the outlier risk would be having the cartridge bearings pressed into carbon without there being any preload adjustment in the DT axle design
I built up this Ryde Andra rim on the advice of a bunch of euro cargo nerds on a facebook group and surprise surprise, I’m a little annoyed.
I had to order it from germany and it was wobbly as hell right out the box, the joint is all fucky and there’s a little bit of something rattling around inside it.
The thing is true now but the tension is all over the place. I’ve never had a wheel be so uneven before. How the heck do I even out the tension while keeping it true?
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Is Mavic making those rims?
The last time I had uneven tension on wheels, I ended up taking all the spoke tension out and retensioning them. It worked great for one of the wheels and made no difference on the other.
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That’s what I was gonna try. I’ll report back here.
I’ve seen a few spoke flanges crack, the internals are robust enough just like DT. They’re faster when they’re loose.
I have a set of Ryde rims I got from velomine way back. I just rebuilt the front one back to a qr hub (long story). They have never tubelessed right, despite being clearly designed for tubeless. Always leaky. Ryde rims - never again.
they’re taking you suckers for a ryde
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These rims are directionally drilled. Hard to say but it looks like yours are laced opposite to the drilling direction. I understand they’re available in French and DIN drillings but all the ones I’ve seen/built have been French.
It’s definitely directionally drilled and it’s definitely laced correctly. (I think, I’ll check later)
I think Rusty’s lefty -righty is correct.
Can you please explain the distinction between French and DIN drillings?
Yeah, those are new terms to me too.
Update: the lefty righty of my wheel is correct.
Same as left/right or type1/type2 except some hope of remembering which is which. Typically you can tell just by looking at how spoke holes are offset from the rim centerline. But in rare cases the offsets are backwards because of extreme directional drilling.
I don’t specifically recall that being a feature of the Andra 40 but I do recall getting a French drilled rim, rare itself these days, when I ordered them last.
The pic looks like normal lacing but the nipples on either side of the valve appear to sit funny as if fighting the drilling direction. Probably just a collab between oversized holes and super thick extrusion tho.