Yeah the aluminum of the rim bed is like 5mm thick and the holes are not only offset from the centerline, they’re drilled at an angle so it would be pretty obvious if I did it wrong. I detensioned it but haven’t retensioned yet.
So which is French? Looking at the valve hole from the center of the wheel, is it where the holes go like this / or like this \ ? How does this correlate with handedness?
What does DIN stand for?
So many questions
Personal anecdote: Kinlin XRT22s were drilled oppositely handed to DT 460s that replaced them. I had to fuck around a bit to get the hub label lined up right after that and it definitely worked better with the kinlins. I have no idea which one was french, but my Shimano hub prefers kinlin orientation.
… Deutsch Inglelese Naben
I managed to make re-hubbing a wheel even more annoying by deciding to do it without removing the tubeless tape.
The bike shop I go to is 20 minutes away and I didn’t want to make a special trip just to get new tape for these wheels that I’m going to sell, so at least I think I still saved time by not retaping. Somehow managed to not push a nipple inside of the rim cavity.
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Is there a name for the type of nipple on the right? It’s from an Oval road wheelset. All the NDS spokes are failing at the thread so I’m probably going to re-lace.
Just a hex head. That one looks like some random alloy. Get some Sapim secure lock brass ones.
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Doesn’t failure at the head indicate the spokes are too short?
Sometimes, but the spokes here were threaded in the nipple as perfect as could be. This particular case I believe it’s a combination of a poor build + low quality spokes + bad luck.
This is the second wheel this year I’ve had the same problem. Both are rear wheels 28h 2x build. The Oval was an OEM build that I didn’t touch given it was true and well tensioned with what looked like good spoke path. I have been riding it as a gravel and light MTB wheel (this is part of the problem) and the first spoke failed at ~1200 miles. The second and third failed as I was truing the replacement spoke.
The other wheel is a Bdop kit I built with Pillar Triple Butted spokes - 2.2mm at the elbows and 1.8/2.0 elsewhere. Spoke broke at the threads ~1800 miles and then another within 100 miles and then another 20 miles after that one was replaced.
From what I’ve learned researching this issue both from the spoke perspective and as a drawn steel wire product, this is clear evidence of defective spokes. Each of the Pillar spokes was like this. Only the first Oval spoke exhibited this fatigue pattern, the rest did not, probably because I forced them to break before they would have normally from the stresses of riding.
The most irritating thing is that I’ve built 2 other 28h rears wheels for serious MTB riding and they’ve been fine over more mileage and rougher treatment - because I used Sapim spokes/nipples.
The Pillar spokes were a particularly bad choice, a regular broken spoke at the elbow can be replaced quickly. A broken spoke at the threads means taking off the tire, dealing with sealant, new rim tape, new valve seating - it’s a real pain in the ass.
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old offset Moonlander?
Yes trying to decide if I should do a grin kit on it
Your offset is the wrong direction. Maybe you know that, in which case that the spoke calculator is commendable for coming up with that “solution”.
Doesn’t the offset go non drive side to center the cassette with the ring? I’ll pull the frame tomorrow and figure it out
Oh. The tire isn’t centered on the frame so the chain can get around the rubber
The tire is centered, the hub is pushed out to the drive side so the chain gets around the tire. The chainring is also pushed out.
that’s what I get for dithering while stealing time.
maybe the cyoc is the better option
Hub shift: +28
Left rim offset: -12mm
Right rim offset: +12mm