Sapim d light
DQ: if a person were going to build up a set of 26" wheels with a dynamo on the fairly cheap, what hoops and hubs does Tarck recommend? My commuter has seriously busted, heavy ass wheels, and I’d love to build up something better and get generator lights on there while I’m at it.
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CR18s + dynamo from ebay or xxcycle + whatever rear hub looks good in the bin at the community cycling center?
Or get your framebuilder to put disc tabs on the thing and go wild with the cheaper 26" disc rims at Universal cycles?
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Alex Adventure for the rim
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I have a 26" dyno wheel that’s just sitting around and needs a new home so I don’t build a bike around it. It’s a QBP Handspun wheel, some sort of silver Mavic deadender rim, Shimano Q/R dyno hub, low miles, cheap. Also will be in PDX the middle-ish of next week, could deliver, if interested.
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I have this exact wheel on my Antelope commuter, it’s fine. Basic and cheap, super durable and does the job. I’m nearly to the point where I should rebuild the rims, and then I might switch to some Adventure 2s, but that’s neither here nor there
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Me too! Great wheel. Has held up to some serious groading. Not tubeless but who cares
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- shimano LX/XT dyno
+shimano deore rear
both centerlock, just in case
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in case you needed to hear it again- alex adventure 2 for the rim. sub $40 at retail, ~460g, properly tubeless, eyeleted, very smooth build, and seemingly very strong, nice and wide. Alex really outdid him/her/themself with this one
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Set my wallet on fire on some light bicycle rims. I should plan on using nipple washers right? Does that affect my ERD?
I didn’t use washers and mine are not obvioisly cracking or anything after eighteen months or so. Having said that I now wholeheartedly assume that they will explode the next time I sit on the bike, but so far so good.
I think if you did use washers they would expand the radius of the rim by the thickness of the washer, right?
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very specifically these washers
not absolutely necessary, but they sure do make it extra easy and solid to build, given the handmade nature of the rims and the bitey nature of the crabon epoxy
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counterpoint: bathe everything in a rich layer of linseed oil and maybe it’s all fine as long as you don’t have to fuck with the wheel ever again?
it does affect your ERD by the thickness of the washers- whatever ERD measurement tool you use should include a pair of washers on either end to account for this, but you usually get 1-2mm from 'em
I built with the washers Fred recommended (those are specifically the ones you want to use for this application) and would do so again, also coated everything in linseed oil to keep everything spinny; washers aren’t totally necessary but if you want to build high tension they’re as good a safety measure as any
DQ: Whats the deal with adding Loctite 222 to spoke threads? I thought we were meant to lube threads and assume everything will be ok after 1000km?
Locking nipples. Never locking chemicals.
Oh right oil rim eyelets, threadlock spoke threads
Whale oil beef hooked
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Dq what do locking nips do that purple loctite doesn’t? Never used either, certainly not purple loctite on a rear wheel that just wouldn’t stop loosening on the nds.
anaerobic threadlockers harden. locking nips just provide some prevailing torque. i’ve used purp on wheels and it’s been fine, but maybe ill advised when a more holistically helpful option was available
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