DQ: why are XC 29 carbon rims lighter than Road carbon rims?
SQ: What’s a good 700c crab hoop under 438g ?
Tire pressure
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for road tire use better aerodynamics massively beats any benefit from lighter weight, and you could also have easily made them “too light” to handle well
for MTB use you can spend just that weight budget on the tire instead of the rim
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Well now I am up to my 3rd broke spoke on this wheelset. All spokes were driveside rear at the flange head.
This time it was 40 miles into a 130 mile ride. Miraculously it was wobbly but not wobbly enough to rub the rim brake pads nor the fenders so I found some twist ties at the open control grocery store and made do.
I am so baffled by these spokes (Wheelsmith DB14 Silver) because I used the same exact spokes (but in black) for my Elephant NFE wheelset which takes significantly more off-road abuse & camping kit weight.
I measured & compared the tension last time this happened and they are very close to the same amount of driveside tension measured on the Elephant.
Do you think I just got a faulty batch of spokes? Should I use different spokes from now on?
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That’s weird.
The original rear wheel that I built for my HG got ever so lightly hit by a car almost immediately after being built. I de-tensioned and re-trued it and a few weeks later PING
I replaced that spoke and then a couple weeks later, it happened again.
At that point I replaced all the spokes and the rim and now it’s fine and no longer has that annoying hop.
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What are your preferred spokes these days?
Also of note: I vaguely remember having to lace these wheels reversed to what all my books suggested because the mechanic that originally laced the hubs did it that way and my books said to prioritize the angles of existing indents on the flange marred by the old spokes. Is it possible to incorrectly lace 3x if you get the pattern correct & valve hole parallel? There is no such thing as lacing direction, right?
Album: https://www.flickr.com/photos/andy_squirrel/albums/72157668510146559
You usually want the pulling spokes on the outside of the flanges, atmo
Does that match what Sheldon says:
Derailleur rear wheels should be laced with the trailing spokes running up along the inside of the flange. There are three reasons for this:
-The spokes are bent around each other at the outermost crossing. Under drive torque, especially in low gear, the trailing spokes straighten out and the leading spokes bend even more. If the wheel is laced with the trailing spokes on the outside of the flange, the crossing gets pulled outward toward the derailer cage, and in some cases will actually hit against the derailer under load.
-If the chain should overshoot the inner sprocket due to the derailer being mis-adjusted or bent, it is likely to get more seriously jammed between the spokes and the freewheel if the spokes slant so as to wedge the chain inward under load.*
-If the chain should overshoot the inner sprocket, it may damage and weaken the spokes it rubs against. Since the trailing spokes are more highly stressed than the leading spokes, it is better to protect them from this type of damage by keeping them inboard.
Whatever the bike shop gives me. Usually Wheelsmith DB14 or sometimes DB DTs. I’m not particular, especially when they’re willing to cut them for me in like 15 minutes while I hang out and shoot shit.
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No, but Sheldon is saying you should put the spokes in a weaker orientation to handle three edge cases, two of which are mechanic error.
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Looking for 26" 36h tubeless rim brake hoops. VO Voyager checks all my boxes but does the Alex adventurer 2 come in this spec? Is there another option I’m missing? I’ve found 36h in 700, but all the 26" I see are 32h. Their website isn’t very much help either.
These guys? Or do you want the un-machined sidewall specifically?
Nice. That’s the one, but do they come in silver?
I don’t remember ever seeing silver ones.
I have both Adventurers and Voyagers and the Voyagers are shiny shiny and generally nicer. The Adventurers are perfectly functional and an unbeatable value, but have a distinct OEM vibe to them.
Sup caught me taping up her new rear wheel. I have the weirdest technique, it can only be done barefoot since my toes hold the tape taught.
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is that two poangs next to eachother as a loveseat? i like it
yeah, it was a little contentious with last Sup. She really wanted a couch or loveseat but I HIGHLY value personal space and comfort in sitting situations… plus I already had two Poangs coming into the relationship. Being able to rock back and forth was also something not easily accomplished with real love seat / couch.
Okay wheel building guru’s @ergott and the lot of you, I have never approached a wheel build like this:
I have a complete wheel with a toast rear rim, I know the ERD: 550
I have pulled two spokes from said wheel, DS and NDS: they are both 270mm
I have bought a new rim to replace the old rim, it’s a DT E512 with ERD: 562
This where shit gets weird for me. The hub is an old Superstar Electro-hub and I don’t have any of the measurements of it, I’ve emailed Superstar for some old tech docs which they say the have none. I also don’t know what “Rebranded hub/OEM hub” the “Superstar Electro 102” is. There are NO measumernts available online, I’ve mustered up all my google-fu (and I’m pretty good at this here internet thingy…) and found nothing.
I don’t want to pull the old wheel completely apart since it’s still on the rear of my hardtail and is rideable with a tube, though not tubeless hence replacing the rim.
Can I just add on the difference in ERD between the two rims and knowing the old spoke lengths and get the new spoke length? Like:
562–550=12
12/2=6
270+6=276