Or get the drop on them by making a bunch of wheel sets with them right now?
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The real question is, why are you building non-tubeless wheels in 2019?
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Road bike. Smaller than 30. No tubeless for me.
I deal with it every damn day and don’t want to deal with it myself as this bike will be ridden a couple times a month.
He’s just a corporate shill for Big Innertube.
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I’m building some 700c carbon rims up.
Should I:
A) Buy straight gauge spokes, but in OIL SLICK coloway
B) buy regular double butted spokes in boring silver.
Drive side rear and brake side front oil slick in turd way.
Rest silver.
Or just all silver.
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dq does is kinda unbalance a wheel, tension-wise, to use two radically different sets of spokes for different sides? Do you just have to do a little re-dishing once everything’s settled?
Tension is tension, man.
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thick thing stretch less than thin thing?
I’m not an engineer, I’m just thinking big thing less bendy or stretchy
hopefully stress-relieving would get any plastic deformation out of your system before it hits the road
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I find stress relieving works for unwinding spokes that got kind of twisted, but there’s a little bit of give and whatnot that seems to take a few hours of riding to really settle in. That or I’m just a mild disaster at building wheels.
It also means I have the luxury of building wheels, stress relieving and truing, and then doing a final true after a hundred miles or so. Or not at all if it’s a disc braked wheel, because I’m a goddam monster
Non-turdly butts all the way.
Oil slick will not age well.
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Tension is tension. Mavic uses different spokes and oftentimes different materials.
I built myself ( Face now owns it) a rear 29er mtb wheel with DT Revs on NDS and comps on DS. Still dead straight after two years.
Rim selection is more important than spoke selection IMHO. My new wheels are are db nds and non butts ds rear because I was impatient.
that makes sense. Does being skilled at wheelbuilding have any impact on the relevance of spoke thickness? If so I’m kinda boned here
No. Build and tension based on thickness of spokes being used, along with rim and hub max kgf specifications. Always look up manufacturer max tensions for rim and hub before building to avoid preventable failures.
Higher tension on rotor side for front, higher tension on cassette side on rear.
Oh yeah that stuff I basically get, I just have kinda not the best touch in getting it all put together. Never had a wheel taco or anything, though, so I guess it works out
Max kgf for tb14?
Just retensioned mine, probably as much as it’ll take.
probably 120-130. seems to be the popular choice
I think they’re 120kgf max. I built mine to 125kgf, just before they start getting all weird.
They start doing weird things at 130.