You should buy Mig’s wheel. Or get the cheapo bolt on Shimano hub laced to a 36h rim cheaply.
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Has anyone successfully ran the shimano lego on a SON hub for any significant distance / time?
I test-fit on my new SON hub and it felt sloppy - lots of movement even with the bike in the stand and spinning the wheel.
I just can’t imagine it staying put like that, so I wired up the standard connectors…and after taking the wheel off twice i’m already fed up with the spade connectors.
Think maybe @karl_dandleton suggested they fit - whats the secret?
AFAIK they just slide right on. i haven’t done it but someone or other on here has confirmed
maybe double up the stripped wire in the channel?
If ya can’t make the Lego work I always stan the SON coaxial connector, so much better than the spade connectors. A little expensive but imho worth every dollhair Schmidt Coaxial Hub Connector
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I’ve been using a Lego connector with a SON hub for a couple years. It worked fine for a while but It recently started cutting out occasionally until I shimmed the connector with little bits of electrical tape to push the wires into the spades more firmly. I want to try twisting and soldering the ends of the wires to see if that helps make the contact tighter.
The SON spade connectors are definitely more reliable, I rode them in all sorts of crappy weather for 10 years with zero problems. But now I have a second wheel set with an SP hub and the Lego connector let’s me swap between them easily.
The coax connector is a good idea. I should make a tail for each wheel so the SON gets spades and the SP gets a Lego and I use the coax connector when I swap ‘em.
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Just realizing that since the edelux doesn’t have rear light output on the light, using the coax connector at the hub requires some splicing fuckery elsewhere to run a rear light
???
oh wow, I was looking for the B&M style external pigtails and totally missed the recessed spade terminal.
Thanks!
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Yeah, I’m looking for the photo but I broke that spade bit last year
Yeah, if you want to bring this small 12" long tool with you on your travels
As someone that has traveled extensively with the previous version of CL hubs where you only needed the little lock ring adapter and to secure some sort of leverage, perhaps from a local hardware store or perhaps by packing 6" vise grips in addition to the goddamn lock ring adapter: 6 bolt for life. I die on this hill.
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Lifes to short to fuck around with 6 bolts. At my age anyway. My only scenario for this is if you are traveling to an event and want to remove your rotors so they don’t get tweaked in the bag. No way I would travel on the bike with that big tool, but I’d have no probs packing it with my bike in it’s bag. I guess from a resilience POV 6 bolts would be better for changing spokes, assuming you are carrying spare spokes.
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i traveled with a centerlock tool. it was fine.
It can be fine. I used to do a lot of point-to-point bike camping trips where it was kind of annoying. Cardboard box, take what you flew with, find a new box when you get to the end. If you’re flying somewhere with your bike, riding your bike like a normal person, and then getting back on the plane with the bike bag you came with–sure. For so-called bikepacking you’re lugging an annoying amount of stuff through an airport and any less weight/bulk is very appreciated. Furthermore for the act itself the less complexity the better.
Could go with one of these I suppose as well
I get center lock, but I barely ever remove rotors so 6 bolt is fine.
I just fly with my rotors attached to my wheels
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I tried scrolling up to find it and gave up, do I remember you folks talking about a dyno style light fixture that plugs into a usb powerbank? What was it?
I don’t know if it’s the one you’re searching for, but the Busch and Muller Luxos has USB out with no other futzing in between.
getting light out of the bank or putting foregone light/speed into the bank?
A light that is powered by a power bank instead of a dyno.