Also what I meant by stadic is I would comfortably fit your saddle height, bars is something that will take a few coversations as you get used to the bike. On the subject of getting fit I wouldn’t pay for a new stem that shit should be included with the
price IMO(at least a parts bin swap)
[quote=tarckeemoon]I think what’s often missing in discussions of fit is its relationship with handling. The power/efficiency thing is usually talked about, but isn’t how a bike handles a huge factor in how it and the rider will perform? Variables like handlebar width, stem length, saddle height and fore/aft adjustment have significant effects on handling.
I think it would be interesting to compare the same position on several different bike geometries[/quote]
Which goes hand in hand with what was said earlier about adjusting fore/aft to let your core support you neutrally when you take your hands off the bars in the drops. One point of that is to have the bike well-balanced and handle like it should.
But yeah, I agree. Dude #1 who fit me for free had some funky ideas about fit which may have resulted in a well-handling bike if manufacturers made TT’s a few cm shorter than ST’s across the board, but it wouldn’t work on any real production bike. Basically he was into the “high and short” position for nearly everyone - ~80cm, compact road drops, and a good 6cm+ of spacers showing. For the most part a “comfort” position for cruising on the hoods all day in a century, but way unideal for handling in a crit, especially during sprints. For the record this guy fits mainly racers, not touring dudes.
IMO longish stems coupled with bars matching your shoulder width or slightly less wide, as well as a fore/aft that lets your core support you in the drops, seat adjusted to whatever height before your hips start rocking and bars at a height that you can ride in the drops for a half hour but also have leverage in a sprint or attack, are about what I consider ideal for a road racing machine.
i went from riding a 57tt w/ a 100mm stem(torelli) to a 59tt w/ a 120 stem and longer reach bars(fisher) and i’m actually more comfortable. the fisher has less drop, but has about the hinault fit for the upper body. feels good man.
still trying to figure out saddle though. the flite was raping me so i put on the stock bonty saddle and it feels better. some kids on the tri team don’t like their airiones(came stock) so i might pick one of those up. pops mtb i ride has one and i’ve never had a problem with that. i guess i didn’t mess with the height when i was using the flite, but it was at the height where i had a 15* knee bend and correct fore/aft.
[quote=catdrew f]Also what I meant by stadic is I would comfortably fit your saddle height, bars is something that will take a few coversations as you get used to the bike. On the subject of getting fit I wouldn’t pay for a new stem that shit should be included with the
price IMO(at least a parts bin swap)[/quote]
Well yeah, saddle height is easier to set up because how you do it is generally well agreed upon, either by using a trained eye, goniometer or motion capture. I was skeptical before, but I think motion capture coupled with a trained eye is the best method because it shows you what your legs do dynamically, and show you things about your pedalling that are harder to notice just with the naked eye or a goniometer.
Hell, I should get around to writing up my fit experience with each fitter I’ve seen…
Fizik rep reccomends that if you ride with a lot of drop arione is
best, If you have a bit less flexability the other saddles are better.
I agree with Andre 100% regarding body support in the drops. When my bike is set up right my hands essentially do nothing when cranking away in teh drops, body does everything.
[quote=AndreBear]
IMO longish stems coupled with bars matching your shoulder width or slightly less wide, as well as a fore/aft that lets your core support you in the drops, seat adjusted to whatever height before your hips start rocking and bars at a height that you can ride in the drops for a half hour but also have leverage in a sprint or attack, are about what I consider ideal for a road racing machine.[/quote]
i have this set up for bars/stem and i have to agree.
[quote=AndreBear][quote=catdrew f]Also what I meant by stadic is I would comfortably fit your saddle height, bars is something that will take a few coversations as you get used to the bike. On the subject of getting fit I wouldn’t pay for a new stem that shit should be included with the
price IMO(at least a parts bin swap)[/quote]
Well yeah, saddle height is easier to set up because how you do it is generally well agreed upon, either by using a trained eye, goniometer or motion capture. I was skeptical before, but I think motion capture coupled with a trained eye is the best method because it shows you what your legs do dynamically, and show you things about your pedalling that are harder to notice just with the naked eye or a goniometer.
Hell, I should get around to writing up my fit experience with each fitter I’ve seen…[/quote]
We have a guy here that does biometric power output fittings. I’d like to try him as it’s apparently the shit but he charges like 300$ lol.
MFHY, this is relevant to my interests.
I’ve had a number bikes now that had very similar / almost same geometry in terms of dimensions and angles, but I’ve found pretty drastic differences in handling that I think relate as much or more to fore/aft CG (center of gravity) position as they do to actual bike geometry. Currently, my Pelican with the low trail fork is the best handling, most intuitive and best “carving” bike I’ve owned. It’s nimble without feeling twitchy and just cranks through a turn. My touchpoints are very close to the same relative places as on my old Cross-Check but overall, I think my CG is a bit further forward, but not too far forward… it just feels "right’ somehow.
I had a Giant TCR that was just a hair smaller top tube and had a correspondingly longer stem… putting my CG further forward and my hands even if not a bit ahead of the hub in the vertical. I found that bike to be very twitchy and not confidence inspiring, especially while descending at speed. No bueno, could never get to a warm & fuzzy place with it. By comparison, I was furthest back CG on my Cross-Check and that always felt like it wanted to understeer… which is what I would expect from that weight distribution. The LeMond Zurich was a little better but still not as good as the Pelican. I think the Pelican’s handlebar bag + low trail fork geo = the win combo for me. We’ll see.
Anyways, definitely worth considering and doesn’t really get considered enough atmo.
riding my Trek around lately, I realized I have no dumbness issues on it.
not sure if it’s the Brooks or the Noodles or the contact points or what.
gonna measure basic contact points and compare to Banana Split and make some changes.
cos I have all kinda hand/foot/wang numbness going on, on that bike.
oddly no knee issues on any bikes, despite one really bad knee that’s been beat up by soccer and hockey injuries.
Internet give me a bike fit:
My bike fit looks like shit
plus the bars I got for free suck balllzzzz
thx
fits you better than the kilo did. you do looked stretched though.
dude, you work at velo shop. get molly to take a look.
I got a quick question, if i go from syntace stratos 400’s to fsa omega compacts, should the stem length stay the same?
Right now I feel like I’m just a little stretched out with a 110mm stem, although I feel perfect while climbing, both in and out the saddle
[quote=aerobear]Internet give me a bike fit:
My bike fit looks like shit
plus the bars I got for free suck balllzzzz
thx[/quote]
but yeah. i would position you higher. it won’t look as cool as the pro stem slammed down to the headset, but it looks like if you get any real elbow bend in that position, your back is going to start pointing downward. does anything hurt when you ride?
[quote=AndreBear][quote=aerobear]Internet give me a bike fit:
My bike fit looks like shit
plus the bars I got for free suck balllzzzz
thx[/quote]
but yeah. i would position you higher. it won’t look as cool as the pro stem slammed down to the headset, but it looks like if you get any real elbow bend in that position, your back is going to start pointing downward. does anything hurt when you ride?[/quote]
I feel like overall I should have gone with a smaller sized bike, but the size jump was significant. The smaller size “54” had a 53cm ST and a 53.5 TT, which would have been the same size as my kilo basically.
it’s really not particularly uncomfortable. I can bend my elbows a little more and flatten out my back because I am pretty flexible.
Doing the 6-day I got plenty of opportunities to go off the front of the race and do hard efforts on my own, in which i got real low and bent my elbows a lot…
Brent just thinks I need to push my saddle forward, but I got long femurs and i don’t really like my saddle forward like he does… I want to make some minor adjustments this week though because I need to set up my bike with aerobars to do a pursuit at the obra champs.
I have asked Molly about getting a fit but haven’t bugged her enough.
I really need it on my road bike. I get a lot of back pain when climbing and riding in my drops for extended periods of time.
[quote=Sneaky Viking]riding my Trek around lately, I realized I have no dumbness issues on it.
not sure if it’s the Brooks or the Noodles or the contact points or what.
gonna measure basic contact points and compare to Banana Split and make some changes.
cos I have all kinda hand/foot/wang numbness going on, on that bike.
oddly no knee issues on any bikes, despite one really bad knee that’s been beat up by soccer and hockey injuries.[/quote]
looks like my saddle was too high on banana split
how longs dat stem amy? you look like youd be better with a +20 or 30 stem on a smaller biek
That’ll do it. Had my saddle about 3mm too high yesterday and it was fairly obvious.
Amy, get your bars up and out some.
[quote=halbritt]
Amy, get your bars up and out some.[/quote]
6* stem instead of that 17*…
Yeah, that.