Opinions are all over the place with DA track hubs. A trusted shop mechanic said to overhaul them after every rain ride. Some ride them all winter and are fine. I rode 2 days in the rain, my front DA was fine and my rear spun like total shit, overhauled it and thankfully no pitting, just grime inside. I’d still rather deal with the piece of mind of a cartridge rear, this is going on a all weather wheelset and it’s nicer to not worry throughout the winter and deal with more important things like school and work. I am also not so sure I can tell the difference in added smoothness of looseball anymore like I once thought I could, the difference I felt between my looseball Aerohead set and my cartridge Fusion set most likely had a lot more to do with the lower rolling weight and nicer spokes than the hubs…
You could always look into a Kogswell hub, assuming you can find one.
Have you ever popped the seal on a DA hub? They’re locked up pretty tight, and they’re functionally no different than any other loose-ball Shimano road hub (which no one has even overhauled after every rain ride). Water is definitely going to get in there, and they’ll need more maintenance than cartridge bearings, but I think you’re trusted mechanic is misinformed.
As for cartridge/loose ball, FWIW, I recently looked around and realized that, by coincidence, I only ride loose ball hubs, and I rarely if ever overhaul them, and have no problems. Then again, I don’t live in Oregon. I’m getting a new Formula/Mavic track wheel next week though, so that’ll finally change.
This.
I’m a fan of those XT hubs up front. I may pick one of those sub $20 ones and attempt my first wheel build with one.
If anything it’s probably his arrogance or conservatism shining through. Dean @ Bike Central holds down the only real track-racing dedicated shop in Portland, but he somewhat frowns on people riding track bikes on the street (unless they buy lots of stuff from him evidently; he’s a stubborn guy but a master wrencher).
I have popped the seal on DA track hubs, never on the road hubs; just taking the word of others on that tip that the road hubs are much better sealed. Well, I guess I’ll probably end up running a LF DA track hub if I can’t track down a Formula 32h fixed/fixed or those Miche LF’s that seem to be discontinued. Just gotta learn to get real good at keeping the cones properly adjusted because I’ve had problems with them loosening up by the time I was heading back from the track while I ride in the past when I thought they were adjusted perfectly hours before…
Do you ever use those optional seals that come with the DA hubs? I heard they give add a decent amount of drag (debatable if I’d even feel it) but seal up the hub a little better. I guess if I could get away with overhauling once a month in the winter months that wouldn’t be much of a hassle. But it rains daily in the winter and a lot of times my bike is locked up uncovered outside for a few hours at a time while I’m in class.
andre is that you in your avatar? I’ve always wanted to know.
It’s Andre Nickatina, the rapper.
I’m just some white dude from Portland.
The world as I know it is crumbling. 
[quote=“bonechilling”]Have you ever popped the seal on a DA hub? They’re locked up pretty tight, and they’re functionally no different than any other loose-ball Shimano road hub (which no one has even overhauled after every rain ride). Water is definitely going to get in there, and they’ll need more maintenance than cartridge bearings, but I think you’re trusted mechanic is misinformed.
As for cartridge/loose ball, FWIW, I recently looked around and realized that, by coincidence, I only ride loose ball hubs, and I rarely if ever overhaul them, and have no problems. Then again, I don’t live in Oregon. I’m getting a new Formula/Mavic track wheel next week though, so that’ll finally change.[/quote]
Most of my hubs are loose ball as well. No troubles. Are you sure that the seals are the same on the track hub? I haven’t looked at them, but I wonder why they would add seals to a hub that probably will never see rain with its intended use?
Phil LF = hot
I think the issue is more the right tool for the job, at least that’s the vibe I’ve gotten.
Also, are you even going to see the rear flange? If you have a fixed/fixed or fixed/free with something on both sides, chances are you won’t even see the flange from the side. Plus for a campus bike I think I’d go low budget as possible (I rocked a Suzue basic for five years with an overhaul every 4 months, they are now trashed after eventual pitting.)
Have you ever popped the seal on a DA hub? They’re locked up pretty tight, and they’re functionally no different than any other loose-ball Shimano road hub (which no one has even overhauled after every rain ride). Water is definitely going to get in there, and they’ll need more maintenance than cartridge bearings, but I think you’re trusted mechanic is misinformed.
As for cartridge/loose ball, FWIW, I recently looked around and realized that, by coincidence, I only ride loose ball hubs, and I rarely if ever overhaul them, and have no problems. Then again, I don’t live in Oregon. I’m getting a new Formula/Mavic track wheel next week though, so that’ll finally change.[/quote]
i just recently ridded myself of my last loose ball unsealed track hub.
i rebuilt my lf single sided fixed da hub with brand new bearings & phil green grease at the beginning of june. i retired that wheel like 2 weeks ago.
before i sold it to a friend, i repacked the hub with new bearings and grease. the phil grease from june was brown, kinda like thin pudding. there was no grit inside the hub though.
i probably had <600 miles on the rebuild, and it really isn’t rainy here in the summer in boston.
da = meh.
i’m not really into pure track equipment on teh streetz. i’ve never ridden a track frame/bike nor ridden on a track. the only track equipment i currently have on my biek is a da cog & lockring.
edit: i cant read
Good point. My DA hubs were from the early 1980s, and all my Shimano road hubs are from around 2004 or later, so I really can’t speak for modern DA track hubs.
it’s stupid to compare shimano road looseball hubs to shimano track hubs. they are worlds apart, and as ppl have previously noted, the road versions are very well sealed, the track versions; debatable, due to the above/ongoing discourse on the subject.
Hey does anyone know if there’s any difference between Ultegra and DA front road hubs besides the fact that DA are more polished, 20g lighter and have a slightly curvier profile? $50 for Ultegra hub + $40-60 for Formula LF + $40 a rim for IRD Cadence + $1 a spoke + brass rear alloy front should a lightweight, bombproof and “budget” wheelset.
Who the hell is charging you $1 for a spoke? Unless you’re doing bladed or super light, shouldn’t they be .35/.75 (straight/DB) from a shop? Probably less if you order a whole box.
Or maybe $1 is just your approximation. I like to calculate things as more expensive than they are so when I actually get the bill I’m pleasantly surprised.
Not much, not that you can tell when just commuting.
Also, I’d suggest brass front and rear… aluminum spokes if not prepped carefully can seize much easier in crappy, all-weather conditions than brass.
[quote=“TimArchy”]Who the hell is charging you $1 for a spoke? Unless you’re doing bladed or super light, shouldn’t they be .35/.75 (straight/DB) from a shop? Probably less if you order a whole box.
Or maybe $1 is just your approximation. I like to calculate things as more expensive than they are so when I actually get the bill I’m pleasantly surprised.[/quote]
DT Revolution/Sapim Lasers cost $1 a spoke I believe. Probably do Revolutions of Lasers in the front, and DT Competition or Sapim Race in the rear.
I thought $1/spoke was standard for double butted, with straight gauge racking in cheaper.
Not much, not that you can tell when just commuting.
Also, I’d suggest brass front and rear… aluminum spokes if not prepped carefully can seize much easier in crappy, all-weather conditions than brass.[/quote]
Aluminum spokes huh? I’m not getting Ksyriums…
haha just kidding. I know what you mean.