Lower-end Campy vs Shimano

Which gen Rival and how much?

[quote=donks][quote=Reasonable Facsimile]Here’s the proposed setup:

Shimano 4550 cranks (34/46)
Campy front der
Shimano XT rear der
Shimano 11-32 (8spd) cassette
Campy 10spd Ergos[/quote]

so i take it campy ergos should work with my sram apex rd/12-32 cassette? and if so, does anyone want to buy my rival brifters?[/quote]
Not really. The cable pull on SRAM is much different.

[quote=Mr. Bear][quote=donks]
so i take it campy ergos should work with my sram apex rd/12-32 cassette? and if so, does anyone want to buy my rival brifters?[/quote]
Not really. The cable pull on SRAM is much different.[/quote]

I thought it did work together well?

http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php/753703-SRAM-10-Speed-RD-and-Campy-10s-Shifters-update

I was thinking older Record 10 shifters plus a Rival mid-cage RD might be a cool set up for large range with 10 speed. I’m considering it for my upcoming build just to be able to use shimano/sram cassettes and hubs.

Are you guys talking 8 speed primarily just for availability/cost of cassettes and chains?

I think there are like 3 or 4 ideas of what works with what in this thread and not all is accurate.

Campy 10speed shifters pull the correct cable for Shimano 8spd cassettes/derailleurs, which is why I’m considering that combo. No J-Tek or cable path hi-jinks required. daVinci tandems offers a modified SRAM rear derailleur that is compatible with Campy 10spd shifters and 9spd Shimano cassettes/derailleurs, but the derailleur is like $135.

the shit works pretty good as is. why everyone always wanna mix n match?

I want mixy-match because I’m building up what’s effectively a drop-bar MTB, and need compatibility with 32, 34, or even 36t rear cogs. I could go all-Shimano, but I much prefer how Campy levers feel with canti’s.

godspeed to ya then. i have experience very limited luck with mix n match set ups (outside sram/shimano front shifting)

I’ve been planning to go the jtek route mostly because I have this (probably overly idealized) memory of loving Campagnolo shifting forever ago but at the same time fuck Campy for just producing Record hubsets. I’m still kicking myself for not buying the complete Century Grey Centaur groupset FullCycles in Corvallis had on display for like a year when it first came out.

[quote=euflavine][quote=Mr. Bear][quote=donks]
so i take it campy ergos should work with my sram apex rd/12-32 cassette? and if so, does anyone want to buy my rival brifters?[/quote]
Not really. The cable pull on SRAM is much different.[/quote]

I thought it did work together well?[/quote]
Campy 10 and SRAM 10 do work together well. I think Nate was thinking of S8, given the context.

Go for it bryn

And the cog-size. I’m guessing XTR is the cassette what I want, and not SRAM PG-850?

[quote=truckdoug]the shit works pretty good as is. why everyone always wanna mix n match?[/quote]this x1000000

[quote=hiljentaa]

DQ: When doing this [10->8 shimergo] , do you just limit out the extra clicks or something?[/quote]

Yeah, there are two places to put the extra clicks, when the derailer is at the top of the cassette (big cogs) and when it’s down at the bottom (lill cogs). I ran my shimergo with both useless clicks down on the little cogs. My reasoning was, down there the “ghost gears” will just make your shift cable go limp instead of putting weird tension on it and pulling the RD towards the spokes/ testing how well your limit screw works.

Compatibility? I love Campy hoods/levers, but hate that it needs to be campy only for the rear-wheel stuff.

[quote=mander][quote=hiljentaa]

DQ: When doing this [10->8 shimergo] , do you just limit out the extra clicks or something?[/quote]

Yeah, there are two places to put the extra clicks, when the derailer is at the top of the cassette (big cogs) and when it’s down at the bottom (lill cogs). I ran my shimergo with both useless clicks down on the little cogs. My reasoning was, down there the “ghost gears” will just make your shift cable go limp instead of putting weird tension on it and pulling the RD towards the spokes/ testing how well your limit screw works.[/quote]

Cool, thanks man!

Compatibility? I love Campy hoods/levers, but hate that it needs to be campy only for the rear-wheel stuff.[/quote]

i really would like to spend some time on the 11s stuff. i think hoods would work really awesome for my hands.
but the chances of getting a neutral wheel are basically zero, so i’ll stay in the cheap seats

[quote=truckdoug]I really would like to spend some time on the 11s stuff. i think hoods would work really awesome for my hands.
but the chances of getting a neutral wheel are basically zero, so i’ll stay in the cheap seats[/quote]


UltraShift levers with cables for 148 shipped. If you’re using shrams the cable pull is damn near identical.

nah, sram shit barely works as it is. i have no desire to needlessly complicate my life any further.

maybe in a year or two when most of my races are wheels-in, wheels-out i’ll give campy 11s a try.

[quote=scrub][quote=curiousincident]^ also sounds very desirable for cyclocross. specifically, trying to come at a steep, short borderline run up from the flats with as much speed as possible, then dumping gears to power over the top without losing traction in the rear with a too-tall gear.

i’m thinking 2x8 shimergo for next season’s race bike.[/quote]

Sorry if I messed people up but it dumps the other way, making pedaling harder unless you use the Shimano MTB derailleur that ‘rests’ at the easy gearing.[/quote]

I have ultrashift veloce on my roadie and it really is very nice to be able to shift 2-3 at a time in both directions. I use this function regularly. I even occasionally dump five at a time when I crest a hill or something. I can’t imagine anyone who’s actually used a group that does this would say it’s useless.

[quote=euclid][quote=scrub][quote=curiousincident]^ also sounds very desirable for cyclocross. specifically, trying to come at a steep, short borderline run up from the flats with as much speed as possible, then dumping gears to power over the top without losing traction in the rear with a too-tall gear.

i’m thinking 2x8 shimergo for next season’s race bike.[/quote]

Sorry if I messed people up but it dumps the other way, making pedaling harder unless you use the Shimano MTB derailleur that ‘rests’ at the easy gearing.[/quote]

I have ultrashift veloce on my roadie and it really is very nice to be able to shift 2-3 at a time in both directions. I use this function regularly. I even occasionally dump five at a time when I crest a hill or something. I can’t imagine anyone who’s actually used a group that does this would say it’s useless.[/quote]

this

[quote=jamey][quote=euclid][quote=scrub][quote=curiousincident]^ also sounds very desirable for cyclocross. specifically, trying to come at a steep, short borderline run up from the flats with as much speed as possible, then dumping gears to power over the top without losing traction in the rear with a too-tall gear.

i’m thinking 2x8 shimergo for next season’s race bike.[/quote]

Sorry if I messed people up but it dumps the other way, making pedaling harder unless you use the Shimano MTB derailleur that ‘rests’ at the easy gearing.[/quote]

I have ultrashift veloce on my roadie and it really is very nice to be able to shift 2-3 at a time in both directions. I use this function regularly. I even occasionally dump five at a time when I crest a hill or something. I can’t imagine anyone who’s actually used a group that does this would say it’s useless.[/quote]

this[/quote]

its not that much faster though.

occasionally i shift multiple shifts up, but that’s way more important than being able to dump it down cuz if you forget to shift going into a super steep hill you fucked trying to shift quickly under load.

if you’re undergeared you’re not going to kill yourself trying to get back moving…