Mig muses on 2 wheels

in all fairness, sometimes the thing is printed off center

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1mm’er

maybe he knows your right shoulder is slightly wider

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Front f/f, rear wheel, handlebars, rear frame, front wheel.

DT hubs or a rear wheel with a removable cassette body would be real helpful.

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Ok, there is a frame from a famous builder for sale. This frame has a broken QR dropout. On a scale of 1 to jackass, what is the opinion on buying the frame and swapping the dropouts for TA disc? And would this be “good money after bad”

How much is the frame going for?

$300

Who is the builder?

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Ignoring “value”, I think it’s fine, not JA at all. It’s like having track ends brazed on, which I also support. There are plenty of bikes to go around, you’re not ruining some precious object.

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ANSWER THE QUESTION @LASER_BEIGE

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Do it. And if you have a certain local frame(re)builder do the mods they’ve got another frame of yours that’s been lying around in their bike mess that they’d love to release from bike prison

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https://citeseerx.ist.psu.edu/document?repid=rep1&type=pdf&doi=eae765c21e277d1159f878b427896c9bfcdc7691

Fun read

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Let’s chat travel bikes

Get me into which crankset has a drive side that can be removed without ‘resetting’ the preload

Is there a road version of the splined sram? That’s one tool on and off and solid

driveside separate from spindle?

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That would be preferred because the chainring/arm can get in the way.

Isn’t that ISIS you’re talking about?

Setting the preload on a dub crankset is trivial at worst. Same with Shimano but you do need a special tool.

The aluminum dub crank bolt do be getting stuck pretty good sometimes though, get the steel bolt and you’re good.

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a pair of allen wrenches together fit well enough in the plastic hole to turn it at the normal preload torque, I’ve also used the handle of a fork or in the newer hollow style just a stick from the side of the road

but if you’re doing a travel bike thing just buy an aftermarket chinese aluminum m20 bolt that’s anodized in a matchy color, and takes a normal 6mm or 8mm allen wrench

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Shimano road wet brakes in 8100 ultegra flavor:

How are the calipers vs the good mtb calipers?

Does the brake hose have a banjo?

Any common failures on any of the di2 bits?

they moved from 22mm diameter pistons on the 11-speed 105/Ult/DA calipers to back to 21mm diameter pistons on the calipers associated with the 12-speed road groups. That’s the same as Deore and below. SLX and above have 22mm pistons and will be more “powerful” but might have excessive stroke on 12-speed road levers.

no banjo at the caliper.

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