So on MTBs, long travel suspension forks (and slacker head angles that accompany them) pushes front wheel out farther (more secure downhill).
But so does more rake, which is why Fred was saying the ‘slacker’ HTAs on bikes people were discussing wouldn’t be that great with nerd fork, because they push it out a lot.
So, optimization is different for different styles of riding: downhill vs porteur vs road vs trail etc
Is there a “best” for each category or does that rest with the desire of each individual rider?
I think part of the problem is that it goes up as the sizes go up.
This makes sense because wheelbase does so, too. Then you figure that the backend (chainstay length) will remain constant throughout the run.
Beyond that, it will get too nerdy for me.
[quote=NOVELTYNAME]So, optimization is different for different styles of riding: downhill vs porteur vs road vs trail etc
Is there a “best” for each category or does that rest with the desire of each individual rider?[/quote]
you’re not going to find the explanation you’re looking for
THE FRAME IS THE FRAME ATMO
Seems relevant to this thread
Is it ridiculous to replace the aluminum death frok on the Foprad with a crabon disc jawn? Need new front wheel anyway for dyno, and the elimination of a rim brake would surely help with bag/rack lyfe.
[quote=Bahamontes]Seems relevant to this thread
Is it ridiculous to replace the aluminum death frok on the Foprad with a crabon disc jawn? Need new front wheel anyway for dyno, and the elimination of a rim brake would surely help with bag/rack lyfe.[/quote]
What mounting points for a rack is a carbon dick fork going to give you?
Do they make non tapered carbon disc forks?
Ritchey does.
I really wish they’d do a comp version or something. The WCS is $400.
[quote=tarckeemoon][quote=Bahamontes]Seems relevant to this thread
Is it ridiculous to replace the aluminum death frok on the Foprad with a crabon disc jawn? Need new front wheel anyway for dyno, and the elimination of a rim brake would surely help with bag/rack lyfe.[/quote]
What mounting points for a rack is a carbon dick fork going to give you?[/quote]
^THAT
also except for that ritchey, every other carbon fork you could replace it with is mostly aluminum where it matters
Thanks fellas. You right.
Still jelly of Heath’s Enve.
At your size a rim brake will stop you fine.
You’d need something drilled at the crown a canti frok, which can also be hard to come by with crabon.
I like my EC90X a lot, but it the fork is not drilled through. It only has a threaded insert at the back of the crown.
If you don’t plan to do fenders there’s a Kelly fork on Ebay right now with plenty of steerer. Just get the crown drilled out and mount whatever canti post rack.
Sorry for that mess of a post. Typing on the phone sux.
Back to Mig’s front center wiki…
Please don’t hold back if I’m wrong, but;
Front center is dependent on top tube + head tube angle + fork rake, right?
So for any bike/purpose/style of riding you would choose your reach, and then the HTA and rake that give the ride you want resulting in atmost a front center length?
Then get more nerdy by throwing stem length dithering into the batter. Fold in some extra fork esoteric fork dimensions. Sprinkle in copious braze ons and bake up a proper homercar
On Today’s episode of “METAL KITCHEN” with Braden, we’re going to make a homercar…
It is tarck’s favorite recipe after all…
There’s just so many ways to make it and it always is clearly a homercar.
heres where i need to type things and flush out ideas:
desired forks for classic rando bikes with rim brakes are generally more boingy which is good for comfort
disc brake forks are generally more stiff to handle the braking force
is anyone making a boingy disc brake fork?