[quote=mdilthey]1. There’s a trick you can do with your hands. If the bead won’t go on the rim at 12:00, put your hands at 6:00 on the opposite side and start “stretching” the tire with both hands. Go all the way around the tire until your hands meet in the middle at 12:00 and you should have another millimeter or two of tire there to get the bead over the rim.
You can use multiple tire levers spaced ~1 inch apart to get a stubborn bead over the edge. I carry three.
If you’re on the trail, survival instincts and adrenaline will get you the extra force you need to get rolling again.[/quote]
I also carry three, alloy. Scratched rims is my least worry.
[quote=NOVELTYNAME][quote=Face]
Try diluted dish soap to help the tire over the rim.[/quote]
diluted soap on the inside of the tire bead and on the rim?[/quote]
Put the slippery stuff where there’s excessive friction.
If you’re planning to use road-ish pressures it’s a good idea
especially if you need to drop a tube in it, the pressure from that can split a single layer of tape[/quote]
can we talk about tape and valve interface? i have stans valves. I wouldnt say that the tape is split very far but it is split down the rim at least 2-4mm from the valve when it’s tightened. now, i dont have the tire even mounted yet but i want to know if this is going to be an issue
I usually take a nail in some pliers and heat it up then melt a hole slightly smaller than the valve stem. I insert the stem and use it to do the final stretching.
My personal strategy is to poke a much-too-small hole and then slowly and carefully push the valve in, stretching the hole out so that it fits flush with the rubber base. God, what a sentence.
Depends on what the other bits are. I don’t think a 42 would work on my 11 speed shimano drivetrain. The 36 works but it gets weird in that gear. B-screw just barely does the job. And I only have a 46-33 up front.