I say double. But if you use the tripleizer I think you should stack on the Avid Microdapter I have and go with quad chain rings.
Tempted to get disc tabs added to polo frame so I can have more than just a front brake and get more use out of the bike since I hardly play anymore and would make it cross-able which would be rad.
Also kinda want to sell the troll for something I actually enjoy riding especially after a couple of tire iterations and still having issues with it low siding on a number of occasions when I’ve never had another bike like to let go like that.
OR sell both bikes & get a road bike and some sort of Yolo bike that I don’t know what it is yet
I bought the 54/42/30 rings on clearance from a french shop and a 120mm Ti BMX BB on ebay
Pretty much set on getting the Chorus 11 ergos
but should I shimergo, or play it straight with a matching campy dangler and 11-speed it with a 6800 cassette?
also thinking about whether I should spend extra bucks on a matching pusher, should try fixing the front shifting on Scott’s shimergo triple first to see what’s what
I recently purchased a mid eighties super record groupset, a pair of NOS detto pietro shoes with slotted cleats and a team sammontana jersey to go with my team sammontana paint de rosa frame. Looking forward to reenactment life.
chamfering mtb hub for cassette = shit brah wish I had the knowledge to have thought of that.
yolobike is back together with Shimano stuff / carbon wheels. 25 lb on the dot before bar tape but with everything else. Once I switch this UN54 bb out for WI titanium it’ll get even more ballin’.
turns out that spider-machining trick doesn’t work for a Chris King Classic
would work on a DT hub, but there you can just buy the freehub body kit
[quote=JUGE FREDD]turns out that spider-machining trick doesn’t work for a Chris King Classic
[/quote]
womp fuckin womp
gotta wait for the new xtr cassette and oneup to make an ultegra cage mod.
welcome to fred(not bbill)lyfe
trp rrls?
what is the current state of good enough and/or awesome brake levers only?
dismal
all the tektro options are pretty shitty
the pre-gutted sram and campy options are old shapes
the Alfine Di2 left lever is super awesome though!
[quote=Miguel][quote=JUGE FREDD]turns out that spider-machining trick doesn’t work for a Chris King Classic
[/quote]
womp fuckin womp
gotta wait for the new xtr cassette[/quote]
that should work cos generous pieplate clearances
it’s possible a 32t will clear
[quote=JUGE FREDD]
it’s possible a 32t will clear
[/quote]
plz advise
would like a step-by-step with photos
I have a set of the “Ultegra” level brake-only levers. Basically the same shape as '80s era stuff. I like them a lot better than the Tektro junk I’ve used, but they rattle a lot. And not very good at providing an on-da-hoods position, but I don’t ride that position much
Ive got some rival levers with broken internals you could gut.
I have a set of the “Ultegra” level brake-only levers. Basically the same shape as '80s era stuff. I like them a lot better than the Tektro junk I’ve used, but they rattle a lot. And not very good at providing an on-da-hoods position, but I don’t ride that position much[/quote]
yep, i have a set of these too and they are especially annoying when they get bent or worn enough that the lever rubs against the plastic body to make a squeak. i like the on-the-hoods position and the trp rrl’s are really comfy but some people* care less for them
[youtube]ptoN-5QE0Lw[/youtube]
*@30sec
I have a set of the “Ultegra” level brake-only levers. Basically the same shape as '80s era stuff. I like them a lot better than the Tektro junk I’ve used, but they rattle a lot. And not very good at providing an on-da-hoods position, but I don’t ride that position much[/quote]
they’re also heavier from the metal body, but less durable because of that plastic shroud
it’s really brittle, and the first thing to touch the ground
[quote=Miguel][quote=JUGE FREDD]
it’s possible a 32t will clear
[/quote][/quote]
you’d be taking a few mm of spline interface off the spider, at whatever radius is needed to sit deeper on your hubshell – that dimension isn’t crucial so you don’t need a lathe
but the depth needs to be real consistently flat so you’d need an endmill not some dremel solstravaganza
you may need a longer lockring as well if you can’t dish it over all the way, the Chris King jawns have more threads than most
[quote=JUGE FREDD]that plastic shroud
it’s really brittle, and the first thing to touch the ground[/quote]
This is true
I have one left over from my first serious wreck as one of them was smooshed by a rear quarter panel
[quote=JUGE FREDD]turns out that spider-machining trick doesn’t work for a Chris King Classic
would work on a DT hub, but there you can just buy the freehub body kit[/quote]
Had to use a washer to add 1mm (actually 2 because I can’t haven’t found a 1mm thick washer in the right size but an M10 or M12–forgot which–right out of the bin at Home Depot is 99% of the way there) to DS of DT hub to use 11 speed cassette and thru-bolt, but that was the only issue. The end cap that makes the 11 speed Shimano body work is 1mm longer.
Here’s hoping thru bolt doesn’t crack in half while I’m in Europe with the bike. I should probably just put a regular QR on there.
dismal
all the tektro options are pretty shitty
the pre-gutted sram and campy options are old shapes
the Alfine Di2 left lever is super awesome though![/quote]
Nah, Cane Creek SCR-5c levers are still the super jam; light, comfortable, rattle-free, have the quick-release. That old Campy lever body is basically the most ergonomic thing ever, and the Cane Creek hood is high quality rubber that is easily replaced if crashed on or worn out.
If you don’t have giant hands and a fairly level handlebar position, Shimano levers are timeless and comfortable. If your hands are large and/or your bars are lower than your saddle, you’ll probably hate them. They also have the advantage of being readily available in every bicycle parts bin in America (the world?). I don’t think that the Shimano are any more or less likely to break in a crash than a plastic bodied lever.
And no old-style SRAM lever is going to be as comfortable as either of these. Those levers are the goddamn worst.
I completely wore out a set of SCR-5 levers, never gonna suffer a pair long enough to do that again
The classic Shimanos have strong aluminum levers and steel bodies, the problem is the plastic piece that separates the two — it shatters very easily from just your bike falling over, and once it’s cracked the levers are a claptrap nightmare.
Yes the shape is extra awful if you’re faster-forwards, people hate on non-aero levers but these are way worse
DQ: do the button paddles come off of Di2 levers?