The closet thing I have found in quality/feel to the OEM pads were the resin Swissstop. But those last about 25% as long. Was able to bulk order some for stock thanks to @igor
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Black Mountain Cycles includes a BB cable guide with the Mod Zero frames that has a cable/housing stop for the pusher. It’s not listed on their site, but maybe Mike will sell you one if you ask.
Cross clamp could be useful here. I used a DIY version of this with GRX FD shifting 42/26 w/50mm chainline and R7000 shifter. Cross Clamp – Problem Solvers
The dual-pull SRAM X- series FD are another option for this callout:
a top pull 10-speed, designed for a both a wider chainline and a wide-range double with a >40T big ring.
They interchange with both pre and post toggle link Shimano Road front shifters. Max chainring is listed as 42 for 2x and 44 for 3x although apparently the geometry is close enough the 2x/3x are functionally the same. Eyeballing the X9 2x10 I have, a 44t should fit and function fine. Previously I used a X5 3x10 on a MTB double with 4400 and then 4700 shifters, and then even later with R7000.
I did this a few times, it’s easier on the front where you can keep cutting the cable shorter as you get practice with failure
you shouldn’t tho
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~80 mile review: they’re pretty good levers.
The narrow body/hoods feel very “dainty” in my big mitts but never caused any hand pain issues over the course of a ~45 mile ride (my left wrist/hand have some pinched nerve issues so I’m always wary about that). The brake lever shape is A+++ - the little hook at the bottom is perfectly shaped for feeling completely locked in while 1-finger-braking from the drops.
Shifts feel very smooth, I never really have to think about it and never accidentally end up “between gears”. I wonder how much of this is “11-speed chains and cassettes are Good” and if they would feel as smooth to use on an 8-speed or 9-speed setup… That said the shift action is fairly “mushy” compared to other friction shifters, there’s a deadzone at the start every time you push one of the levers as the roller clutch need to rotate some distance before it locks up. The return springs on the paddles are pretty weak as well; sometimes I have to help them return to their starting position.
I had to tighten up the friction mechanism on the front shifter because it has fairly high cable tension and started slipping; haven’t had to touch the rear shifter’s friction adjuster.
The shifter ergonomics are… ok. The paddle behind the brake lever feels a little flimsy. The thumb paddle feels very far back (I find myself riding on the ramps of the handlebars rather than on the hoods), but I guess this was where they had to go in order to not obstruct the grip around the hoods/make the lever able to be reached from the drops. Is the campy lever positioning similar?
I may end up moving up from the 18.5mm to the 20mm spool on the rear shifter. The upshift with the thumb lever feels great, but it feels like I have to push the downshift lever too far to initiate a shift.
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I have to say, I have not noticed a deadzone at all in my set-up start point. And to date have not had to return the paddles manually to their starting position. Do you think you could have a little bit of slop in your cabling somehow? I guess if its externally routed you could see? I am on full length internally routed from day 1 with them. Edit: I am 1x only.
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There’s not a lot; I’m just being persnickety here.
It is 100% not in the cabling. I can push the shifter paddles just a smidge and release them over and over and over and the cable never moves. In some senses this is actually a little more similar to an index shifter, where if you don’t push the lever far enough to engage the pawl or whatever, the lever (and cable) return. But it’s not usually how you expect a friction shifter to work! The very few times I’ve had to make a fine adjustment, it’s been an odd feeling.
Huh, I should check that I don’t have the hoods interfering anywhere.
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Next time I am riding I will try to be super observant incase I am missing it.
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You’re all doing the TarckBear’s work here, and I hope you continue blogging about it. These levers sound like my escape hatch when I’m 70 and still shaking my fist at the electronic drivetrain-shaped clouds.
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By the time you’re 70 nobody will be using fly by wire because it will all be wireless and there will be jammers located all over the place
My rear sram auto hub is organically wireless, but its coaster. Hoping to remove the internal brakes so I can run it with a chain tensioner and a 2x front der, to give me 4 speeds.
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Only if you’re still riding an old drive train that doesn’t have 2FA.
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Why would you do this to my wallet
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¯\(ツ)/¯
Very interesting to see that technical explanation for why no one makes silver droppers
This is my friend currently doing some poopbarning race in Vermont as he is slowly breaking every single thing on his bike and slight blogging it.
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