Depends on how much you want for it.
I don’t know if this is the right spot for this but my long dance with this '86 Fuji Sundance’s seized seatpost has come to an end! The bike lived outside for I don’t know how long (multiple salty east coast winters as far as I saw) and the post was about as fused as fused gets. I hoped that riding the bike around with no binder and soaking the post in penetrating oil would do the trick, but after a few months, I realized it needed some help. The post wasn’t at the worst height, and I could have left it as it was, but my thought for this Fuji was to take something that was basically a bike-shaped object and bring it back into an actual working bicycle. I wanted to leave it better than I found it and (other than a slightly bent brake post I’m afraid would snap if I tried to re-align it) this was the final piece of the puzzle. After the rusted-solid bottom bracket, after the roller cam brakes, after the snapped lever adjuster, there was this. I couldn’t free it myself, so I took it to Nomad Cycle in Queens so he could twist it free in a vise. It snapped the vise! Left it at Nomad for Damon to cut it free. A couple days later I got the text that it wasn’t going anywhere and I’d need to pick it up. Took it home and (thanks to a little experience de-anodizing a derailleur) and got to work with dissolving it using drain-opener crystals (aka lye aka caustic soda aka NaOH aka sodium hydroxide). Learned some lessons about that but after a lot of bubbling and overflowing, the post came free in three pieces. Took an afternoon and a morning, altogether, and took a good bit of paint with it. The brazing is fully exposed at the seat tube/seat stay joint, so now I have to think if I want to just wax this thing, clear coat it, or try my hand at a repaint. I’m leaning towards a clear!
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tarklebee nom for sheer determination
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The easy way is to just melt the post out with a torch. I’d hesitate to do it on something nice but I’ve done it twice on crappy old frames that people really wanted to save.
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Is that a cracked crust
i believe that is called a fault
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Yes, first (only?) year of the disc version.
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common misconception- that’s just what it looks like when a lightning bolt strikes
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Love to see it
Sorry about your bike tho
That sucks but also it made me think of the guy emailing Crust about “material lots” after crashing into a bollard which made me laugh
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i feel like half of the discobolts broke in a variety of interesting ways, and the other half have been prominently featured in “i spent $7decabongs building this blingy fop chariot and rode it halfway down the block before deciding i don’t like it, please buy it from me for MSRP + a 10% curation fee” posts on iBOB or whatever.
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this is a refrain of all the “titanium forever bikes” from the y2k era
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My bet would be on that using the binder as the seatstay base was the critical error here. You have all that force laterally around the joint holding in the seatpost. That’s a good constant stress, mixed with the forces from the seatstays pushing and pulling on it at a tangent as you ride along are going to force any weaknesses to surface here. the lug they used to cap this tube off doesn’t look like it is beefy enough for the added ask of holding the seatstays and seatpost binder. Like, I don’t know why they just didn’t use any of the lugs with integrated collars that exist and are beefy enough for this task.
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It’s not lugged at the top, that’s the seat tube cut into in the shape of a traditional lug. Maybe the BOB list is the place to offload the fork with matching rack that only works with that fork due to the eyelet spacing being special.
I think Tarck is also a good option for that.
What’s the Crust frame warraty?
Frame warranty is two years. Fork and rack will get posted to market place.
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