Seat stay junction, not the chainstays.
I’d try my luck with kona
Blob some weld on that shit and rattle can it purple or something.
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That sucks, dude.
I think kona is the new Cannondale as far as frame failures goes. It looks like their carbon has some questionable engineering that leads to consistent failures.
What frames are you seeing borked? We had a couple alu full squishes break at the RD housing exit hole on the chainstay but no carbons.
The cx major jake? Whatever Jake.
Finished up a new road bike built from black friday and parts bin but literally wearing my stretchy clothes and clippy shoes walking out the door. First ride and I’m oh hey seat post is a little low. Lets raise it before going out and seat post clamp bolt snaps. No spares and later when I googled it later found that other people had the same issue with the Hope Seatpost clamp. Went to two hardware stores looking for a bolt then gave up and ordered a different clamp.
A couple years ago the Kona dealer I worked in had a bunch of consistent Dew failures at the joint between the chainstay and dropout. They stopped stocking Kona because it was so bad, and it was mostly a commuter shop so Dews were the only Konas they sold
My Dew cracked 3/4 of the way around the seat tube at the bb, but it was primarily a winter bike, and the previous owner had done an ebike conversion and it was pretty old so I can’t really fault Kona.
Broke a spoke even though the spokes are protected!
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the spoke protector is protecting the chain from the spoke, in an interesting turn of events.
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Found this Otto Lock in the road yesterday, seems to have been crushed by death machine tires.
How should I further asplode it?
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Saw that video the other week, was thinking of trying different scissor shaped tools in the house to see how soft it actually is.
Wondering if my cheap keychain multi-tool scissors could cut through.
I couldn’t cut it with normal heavy snips, appears to need compound action snips and sharp blade like that guy in the video used.
Also tried both hacksaws I had and it’s interesting to feel how the blade gets gummed up. I could only make progress when I put it in the vise and used the saw really close to the clamp cutting perpendicular. It’s too flexible to try and saw while floating or laying flat.
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Very cool thanks Andrew. I was feeling sketched out about using my Otto lock after I saw that video. I feel a lot better now.
I mean, it was cut apart with a $15 pair of generic sheers you can pick up at any big box or hardware store. I still think it’s the best lock on the market for quick runs, where you bike will be out of view for a moment or two, but there’s no way I’d trust that thing where I had previously used a hardened steel shackled U-lock.
Now I really want some compound snips for the tool box.