I’d keep riding that, but then again I’m a dumbass.
I think epoxy would only do something if you were to epoxy an aluminium or steel sheet to it, preferably quite a bit longer than the damaged area.
I’d ride it too.
Looks to me like it’s just a flesh wound.
If it were me I’d try a combo of carefully sanding that area to remove some of the loose material and gluing down the remainder, maybe with some CA/superglue. Don’t sand any deeper than absolutely needed and for sure don’t go deeper than that outer layer that’s already splintering. Don’t use five minute epoxy if it’s going to see any moisture because that stuff will get really soft if exposed to enough water. Then keep a close eye on it afterward.
It’s hard to tell from the pic, but it doesn’t look too deep and that outer layer may be mostly cosmetic to begin with. This is all atmo, ymmv, etc, because I’ve probably forgotten most of what I knew about composites stuff because it’s been 18 years since I was in that industry.
Is slower setting epoxy more water resistant than 5 minute?
Honestly, I’m not sure. I just know to avoid the five minute stuff because we had used it a lot for prototyping something where fast was more desirable than durable and none of us knew at the time it turns very flexible when exposed to water (which this very much was).
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If you’ve got wheel building skills, maybe swap front and rear rims? That’d be a lot of work, but I’d be less scared of that rim out back.
We use 2 ton epoxy to secure titanium studs into giant foam float balls that go in the ocean and it holds up so I’d imagine it’s not bothered by some rain.
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Wald 867 buckled today while accelerating. I’ve ridden these bars at least 15 years. The crack reveals internal corrosion.
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$1/year cost on those is pretty good I guess.
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I got my bike back today with no work done to it. They ordered the wrong part.
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woof, looks like it wasn’t too catastrophic.
i’ll never forget the time i was doing a sick skid on my steamroller (with the factory drop bars) and they just snapped off at the clamp. shit was scary af and i ended up with a huge bubble on my knee for a week from raking it over the top tube
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One time I dropped a big curb on my old Wolverine and the end of the drop bar snapped right off in my hand still connected to the bike with the bar end shifter cable and the bar tape. Somehow I kept it upright.
The weird thing was that it didn’t snap off at a stress riser spot like the stem or brake lever clamp, it was like the metal just tore all jagged right in the hook of the drop below the brake lever.
Another broken axel on my MTB. Also finally got bit using gorilla tape. Thing is a mess.
you were just bragging about gorilla!
Standing by it. Took 25 mins with goo off, a Brillo pad and alcohol.
It shouldn’t be that hard to remove. You’re hurting yourself in multiple ways by using that stuff. It was whatever back when tubeless was new but you’re really doing yourself dirty by not using the blue 3m strapping tape. It’s like $3.99 for a 50 meter roll.
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howww
you weigh like 130 lbs
actually probably because its a re-branded bittex hub with an aluminum axel that had close 200k of descending on it in 6 months and even being light that is a lot of smashing… + the frame could be not 100% straight back there and end up loading the axel more…