I would use the Permatex Metal Weld, I don’t think regular JB Weld works well with aluminum. Scuff up the mating surfaces and make sure the sleeve goes down further than the oopsie and go.
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Well shit actually a shim won’t go past the crack without re-reaming it and might put more stress on it. I think I gotta re-ream it and maybe drill out the crack.
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I was having some trouble with my pusher rubbing against my DS crank arm after swapping to aliex chainrings. To fix the issue I ordered a passquest sram gxp crank washer. The passquest washers come in 1.6, 2.0, and 2.5mm thicknesses. I ordered the thinnest but any of them probably could work.
Here’s the sram spider+rings. I can’t easily measure the offset between the 3-bolt surface and teeth, but you can see it’s likely between 1.5-2.5mm.
Here’s the aliex senicx chainrings. There’s really not much of an offset between bolting surface and the teeth
Now here is the same chainring with the 1.6mm washer in place. In the background you can see the shiny patch where the pusher was rubbing against the crankarm
Already with the cranks in place the clearance is improved. In my use case I’d probably recommend the 2.0mm washer for people replacing a sram spider to direct mount 2x rings, but the 1.6mm is probably “enough”. I will go on a ride later today to see how it goes
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How do I do this? Assuming I’m not attached to the frame I just don’t want to die riding it. Just drill both ends of the crack? How do I drill a hole in a tube? I have no idea what I’m doing.
Dude says he’ll build me a replacement frame but it will probably be November-ish. Same deal as before…cost+$150. For about the same price I could have Rodriguez Bikes in Seattle replace the seat tube and have it ready for summer. I can’t find anywhere closer who will do it for anywhere near that price.
why not both?
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Yeah, have Rod replace the tube and have your buddy build another frame. He clearly needs the practice.
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Yeah go with both if you can, otherwise have Rodriguez replace ST so you can spend the summer riding the bike
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i rode with your mans today and his bike needs a welder’s attention again
cracking right along the weld between the TT and ST.
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B….b…but r/xbiking told me the weld is stronger than the tubes and that welded bikes never re-break!!!
Am I wrong in thinking the stack o dimes shouldn’t be concave?
Unless he bought another of the same exact frame, I think the issue might be that this is what it looked like 2 years ago:
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dang bummer
my grando is cracking like this at the headtube/downtube. i don’t think it’s supposed to be ridden down staircases
Was it designed to huck 5 foot drops?
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Hell yeah… love when a customer abandons a bike for TEN MONTHS, acts like it’s our fault we donated the bike, asks us to try and recover it, and isn’t even slightly apologetic or takes responsibility for their actions once during the conversation
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I’m gonna recover the bike and charge storage.
I’m also now going to use that storage fee to pay my lawyer to help write up a check in waiver that we’re gonna make people sign from now on.
This is the final straw after a rash of people dragging ass grabbing their bikes this spring.
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love / hate the day of the week when I get to send the “hey X gentle reminder your bike is still waiting for you to pick up!” messages.
Also today:
Customer has a complete Spaceframe build from Jones with the bb threaded in with so many spacers under the cup the cup was only engaged with two threads. We were not the first shop to question this, and apparently they asked Mr Jeff about it and he said ‘number of threads don’t mater as long as it’s torqued tight enough.’
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Same. We simply don’t have the space so I text reminders with enthusiasm. People are awful.
And wow… I would have refused service on that jones. Anything that is intentionally misusing a part is an actual liability atmo.
It’s getting a lot done thankfully. Jones riders are built different.
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I only know one IRL. Thankfully he’s a chill old hippie who loves crushing rail trails.
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I’d start by removing a very small amount of spacers every time it came in.
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