I noticed a little play before I headed out. Was in a hurry so I just wrenched down the non drive side cup and must have overloaded the bearings. First little climb I heard something bind then the bb exploded.
It’s running again. Saw someone on here talk about magic gearing and I had the parts in my stash. Only had to file the dropout a touch. Running 38x18 now.
Did that rear brake cable get caught in the dangler?
Not this time. I should probably stop being a bum and trim that down.
Well new bike is fucked. I knew this frame wouldn’t last forever but figured I’d get more than 20 miles out of it.
no way
It was free so whatchagonnado. Strip it and wrap it with carbon fiber? A half dozen hose clamps?
Is this the one that your frame builder messed up but said would be fine?
What a bummer, maybe a seat tube replacement by a different frame builder is in order.
Yeah…more like I convinced him it would be fine though.
Can we get a recap on this saga?
My friend started building frames last year mostly as a hobby. He has friends at Speedvagen and acquired a jig and some spare tubes from them and built two hard tails with some help/guidance from them. I have one of them and it’s great.
We talked about him building me a new drop bar frame. Got geometry and tubing hammered out and agreed on $150 + cost.
He finished brazing the frame, got it back from powder coat and just had to chase and face everything.
Here’s where the fuck up happened. He cut the slot in the seat tube before he reamed it so the seat tube expanded slightly and the reamer went in very slightly crooked resulting in a thin spot in the seat tube.
He calls me and tells me the frame is fucked. It might be rideable but will fail eventually…probably sooner than later. Says he’ll give me the frame for free to use as a townie/pub bike. I optimistically disregard that part and do a rough gravel loop with a little single track as soon as I build it up. I love it. Super stoked.
Get home and see the crack.
I wonder if brazing an external sleeve around the failure would be good enough for those purposes
If you can get it re-reamed straight and jam a long seatpost in there, I bet it will outlive most of us. That part of the frame doesn’t need to do much if there’s a seatpost in there to stiffen it. You could even epoxy a seatpost or a sleeve inside for good measure (you’d need to use a slimmer seatpost in the latter case) but I wouldn’t.
Obviously replacing the seattube would be the proper fix.
That’s what I was wondering. Either that or replace the ST? IDK what’s more feasible though.
I’m kind of wondering this too. Or even a few Chris-crossed layers of carpet fiber.
I might see if he’ll do that…seems like it would work?
if you go that route drill stop that fucker
Could jam/epoxy a straight tube in for which you could then get a seat mast topper.
Long 27.2 adapter glued in with a 25.4 post in that?
Whatever you do, it’s probably gonna creak eventually. But I say bonding in a shim is worth a try. Plenty of good 25.4 posts out there.
Okay I think this is the way. Use JB weld?
Maybe some big honkin clamp on the outside too?