scuderia jimmythefly

Thinking out loud about what to keep/what to sell/what to swap parts around on.

  1. Novara Randonee -ugly CX. No reason to change it, not worth parting or selling, nice to have around as backup whatever bike.

  2. Novara Randonee -canti braked Rando style, needs frok repair, fits 700x42 and fenders. Do I really need a bike like this considering #8 and #9? Fork repair means taking an existing bare fork and having it raked to my low-trail desires and canti studs brazed on -so a custom fork. Which is nice. And I have ridden lots of miles on this frame, but in the end it’s a basic tigged touring frame that they somehow nailed the tire clearance, braze-ons, and geometry on. New frok means change to 1" threadless +new headset +new stem.

  3. GT Tequesta F/F -awesome paint. Bare frame now -build with all-black group as swept-bar townie bomber? Probably need to do this jsut because it is TAF. Enjoy for a few months, then sell unless I fall in love. (not my pic)

  4. Specialized Rockhopper -hot all-silver townie runner with front platform, fenders, dynolights, etc. Been riding this more than anything else lately. Sell frameset and move parts to the MB-2 if it gets fixed or to the Miyata?

  5. Bridgestone MB-2 F/F -lugged with nice lugged frok. Extremely stuck seat post -might not ever come out without frame damage. Can I use this awesome fork on #7 and have a sweet lugged fauX-O?

  6. Nishiki Colorado F/F fun drop-bar monsterX experiment, but too big for me to use that way. Sell frameset and keep parts. Need to dismantle this weekend. With all that extra time I have.

  7. Miyata Valley Runner F/F -lugged mtb (but unicrown fork) that actually seems to have the geometry of a 57cm road bike. Build as stealth XO-1? Just arrived from seller. Need to pull out this weekend and mock up and see if it’ll take the Supermotos (from Rockhopper) or not.

  8. BMC Monstercross disc converted F/F -build with black group from old Rawland. Fenders and Nomads or bare XR-1s? (parabox on craigslist?) In transit. Need to research parabox or other options, but initially will build with on-hand BB7r. Could use paint-MFP theme? EDIT: The frameset should arrive Monday. This is a pic I tracked down from one of the previous owners (not who I bought it from). I scored it fairly cheap because of shitty eBay technique, but I’m a bit worried it may have some hidden issues that need addressing (mostly horizontal D.O. x dick brak collabo).

  9. Trek 500 -700x32 rando/fast roadie type machine. Commit to it and install Rival bits, or sell it now and pursue Raleigh International frameset? Cons-reynolds 501 steel, needs braze-ons for true rando-ability, and honestly, could use a low-trail re-rake.

  10. Zion 737 -clean, get new BB bearings, shred gnar as is. Also, should buy some Stans and finally set up the tubeless.

EDIT: New addition. Forgot I had this.
11. Mystery S&S frame bought at swap meet. Bianchi of some sort? Weird tigged/lugged construction. Only purchased for the value of couplers.

Also -build my fucking TB14/dyno/WI collabo wheelset already. Sell woolie cycle clothing. WINTER IS COMING.

sell me miyata.

What year mb-2?
Sell me fork for my 87 mb-2 which has uggo unicrown. Must be the 58 sizeway

Sell me the MB2 whole and I’ll get the seatpost out.

That Rockhopper is really awzum as-is atmo.

needs pics

Wtmfh u have 10 bikes?
F u gth
I have to GET RID of one before I can build up the serotta

Wtmfh u have 10 bikes?
F u gth
I have to GET RID of one before I can build up the serotta

Double
For impact

I think you should prioritize #8 and having a nice randoish road bike. Try to reduce the number of redundant 26" bikes unless there’s one that would make a good loaded tourer.

definitely do this, there’s still one of those lyon forks in the rafters waiting to be reraked and have canti / rack studs put on it as soon as the weather turns basementy

it’s already a good candidate, with the bonus that you know it so well, so you’ll be able to really experiment with just the low trail thing

Seems like you could easily consolidate to 3 bikes:

‘Road’ bike.
MTB.
Townie.

needs pics

Updated with pics.

Post is currently cut/drilled so basically only a slight tab sits proud of the lug. Tried mild heat/cold cycling, chemicals (though not super-nastys), and when I started and there was more post available I cross-bolted it, clamped in vise and twisted. It stuck real good.

[quote=Sneaky Viking]What year mb-2?
Sell me fork for my 87 mb-2 which has uggo unicrown. Must be the 58 sizeway[/quote]
1993. Is largest size available. Bike has a 148mm head tube. Will holler at you first if I don’t find a solution.

Unpacked it yesterday. If measured in “effective” non-sloping TT way, c-c it would have a 55cm seat tube and 58cm top tube. I think only 35 or 40mm BB drop. 17cm head tube. It’ll sit you up high, like an SUV. Also, I think the seller didn’t measure the HTA correctly . I put it at more like 70 or 71, not 73.

[quote=mick]Wtmfh u have 10 bikes?
F u gth
I have to GET RID of one before I can build up the serotta[/quote]
Just added #11. AYHSMB. Also, note that only 4 of them are built and rideable(1,4,9,10).

definitely do this, there’s still one of those lyon forks in the rafters waiting to be reraked and have canti / rack studs put on it as soon as the weather turns basementy

it’s already a good candidate, with the bonus that you know it so well, so you’ll be able to really experiment with just the low trail thing[/quote]
Yeah, that makes sense. Seth and Kevin you are making sense too.

Mostly I wanted to get this all out and kind of think out loud about it. Someone else posted in PYB or something about wanting a “thinking out loud” thread. Tarck is for bicycle navel-gazing that should be kept private?

Not trying to make it a vanity thread, thanks for replying.

[quote=jimmythefly]Updated with pics.

Post is currently cut/drilled so basically only a slight tab sits proud of the lug. Tried mild heat/cold cycling, chemicals (though not super-nastys), and when I started and there was more post available I cross-bolted it, clamped in vise and twisted. It stuck real good.[/quote]

Oh, there are still a bunch of horrible things you can do to get it out. Hacksawing a slot in the post might work (depending on how far the post goes down into the seat tube) or hacksawing a key notch into the top of the post, then using vice-grips to peel a tab free (if the corrosion is mainly up at the top of the post, peeling part of the top away from the seat tube might relieve enough of the pressure so you can twist that bastard the rest of the way out (or use a mallet to drive the post down just a little bit, then grab the tab and, while using profanity to lubricate the remains of the post, pull it up and out.)

STA and TT on the s&s jobber? sort of want, if you’d consider parting with her

also, for that matter, wheel size? the ST brazeon for a top-pull FD is a little confusing

I’m in the queue on the S&S bike to recover couplers from it.

Fred speaks the truth, we should adapt one of those forks for your Novara (I think I even handed you one for safe keeping, right?). You’ve put more miles on that bike and it’s had the best staying power of everything that you’ve owned in recent history.

Rando, touring, MTB, urban bike is the core mix that has worked for me for the last 5 or 10 years. I also add in tandem and folding bike, but consider them optional. I have multiple in some categories, but only for stupid reasons and know which ones I’d keep.

Yeah, sorry Kevin, Alex has dibs on the couplers. I think that frame might be a Bianchi Sika. There was one on craigslist that had all the right bits -including the weird housing stop locations, weird tigged/brazed half-lugged construction. It’s for 26" wheels.

Yeah, I’ve got that fork in the basement. Perhaps now that rainy days are here I’ll get to working on that particular bike.