why not use a switch instead of metal contacts? Sounds more reliable and versatile.
ps google says anodizing is typically non-conductive.
You could also have a recessed slot on the top with two hidden contacts inside.
Instead of a toggle switch the LEDs could be activated by pulling your randonneuring medallion necklace from beneath your shirt and dropping it into the slot which would short the two contacts.
bonus points if your cue sheet is written in invisible ink and the LED could reveal the information:
[quote=Andrew_Squirrel]You could also have a recessed slot on the top with two hidden contacts inside.
Instead of a toggle switch the LEDs could be activated by pulling your randonneuring medallion necklace from beneath your shirt and dropping it into the slot which would short the two contacts.
bonus points if your cue sheet is written in invisible ink and the LED could reveal the information:
[/quote]
x2
Decaleurchat happened before I bothered to newguy post, but I had ordered all my parts by then. Never decaleured before, so I might be totally off here. Bag side will be Ortlieb stuff like the Morgan Taylor one, with some 1/2" x 1/8" aluminum flat stock going from that to the seatclamp thing at the steerer. Parts have totaled about $45 so far. Here’s a shitty sketch:
Parts:
I was just browsing through the DB and noticed that SRAM DoubleTap wet dicks don’t have a rating. Any recent experience?
I’ve heard mainly meh re: DOT, recalls, and pad wear, but no personal experience. I do have some clutch envy though for a #yoloroad bike.
I have the 2x10, but haven’t had too many miles since h/g bike took over and I didn’t use it for road miles this year.
I like the feel of the hoods and levers themselves, but I like the shimano stuff better when actually braking.
Requests:
Can someone verify the rake of a Kona P2 carbon disc fork?
Can someone write up Whisky’s gravel/cross forks?
General complaint: why doesn’t anyone make a road disc fork with ta, fender mounts, clearance for 35mm actual tires, fender mounts, and 40mm rake?
What’s wrong with 45mm rake? That’s the usual. 5mm isn’t going to cause a major handling imbalance, especially with fatty tires.
http://www.bikeman.com/KON-CMPFKCXDM.html
Probably has the removeable fender mounts.
It’s not the right rake for the geometry I’m trying to work with? I’m not really interested in anything over a 33
mm actual tubeless road tire.
I happily admit that I’m tilting at windmills, but I want a road bike with quick-end-of-traditional handling, not a hybrid bike that’s optimized for gentle trail riding. Most aftermarket disc forks are being made for the latter, these days.
Best of luck!
From what I can tell, 45mm is your choice for aftermarket forks. I still doubt that 5mm of rake is going make a noticeable handling difference.
Lol yeah, I have been working down a list of fork makers, asking if they want to make my ridiculous unicorn fork. No takers thus far, for some strange reason.
My desire for a super traditional road bike for a 6’6" person that also has disc brakes and clearance for 33mm tires and also fenders and also integrates wiring for dynamo powered lights is probably going either wind up in 1. frustration then resignation on my part or 2. my throwing fistfuls of money at whatever framebuilder is willing to put up with my anxious and somewhat ill-informed emails.
Over the years, I’ve had a couple of bikes that just really felt amazing, and it maybe ruined me forever. The Saila frame I’m riding these days is awesome, I just want a fork that’s slightly different in four or five ways.
Kidnap G. Petersen and do a rumpelstiltskin on him until he produces what you want.
Otherwise IDK.
The luglickers have moved on to cuckoo clocks or katanas or whatever is “next”
the custom knife boom sure did suck up a lot of energy
in the 2-10 years from retirement dad demographic