I might have a link in the gaming community that I could ask directly. Would have to wait until Monday though.
[quote=iwillbe]https://www.thegamecrafter.com/
Could be a starting point for this kind of thing.[/quote]
These print-and-play places are nice for standardized stuff, like printing cards and boards, but fall short when it comes to more advanced customization. I’ll need to produce little bike racers, (of course).
This is still a nice resource, though. It has a few more useful bits than the place I have been using (https://www.printplaygames.com/).
Ah, cool, you’re a solid step ahead of the game designers I know. They’re all doing deckbuilding card games, so they just need quality cardstock printing and very basic tokens. Good luck getting it done, and post a link to your shop / kickstarter once the project’s underway, I’d love to play through it!
BACK TO THE THREAD TOPIC, THOUGH:
Two small cold weather clothing things:
-
Wrist Cuffs
This one is very basic but: cut a 6" cuff off of a DeFeet sock, wear it over the end of a ls jersey sleeve / arm warmer, it comes up to the base of the palm, thus covering the gap between glove and sleeve. In 27-40degree weather, it really helps to keep the hands warm, as your blood isn’t being chilled by the harsh winds of winter -
Mylar Shoe Inserts
This one is a work in progress. I bought a coupe of mylar blankets, and cut one up in the pattern of the Superfeet insoles that use in my cycling shoes. I’d already taped over the air vents in the soles of the shoes, and wear neoprene overshoes in cold weather. As the sole is a massive heatsink, I wanted some actual insulation. A sheet of shaped Mylar on the footbed seems better than nothing, but I think that to be actually effective they need to be closer to my foot, and to come up and around the interior of the shoe.
The real solution here is to buy the same Lake winter shoes everyone here seems to find on clearance, but at $3 a pop, a yard of Mylar and a bit of tape is good to try first.
Does anyone have a good source/write-up for DIY rando bag? My google-fu isn’t delivering atm.
I don’t have much sewing experience, but I may have some free time near a machine in a few weeks.
Particularly curious about material sources and any construction tips for seams / pockets, etc.
Have you seen this? It’s okay but skimps on some details.
I got a bunch of material from Rocky Woods. Not sure if there’s a better source but they’ll have most of what you need.
thanks, somehow I missed that one.
Rocky Woods did come up as a source for X-PAC, will check it out
I tried to make a stem bag the other day following these directions. It turned out ok but the details were a little thin at points so I had to tear it aprt and resew it a couple of times. I’ll take some pictures soon.
How are the production bags stiffened - is this just coroplast (or similar) with a liner to hide it?
That’s Will deRosset’s pattern, if you search his last name you’ll find more stuff. I build a variation of that pattern, skipping the front and back pouches. I also add a flap that the coroplast slides under, and put side pockets on the inside and outside.
If you use XPac you have to use a Cordura patch at the wear points. XPac has very poor abrasion resistance.
[quote=dotMR]How are the production bags stiffened - is this just coroplast (or similar) with a liner to hide it?
[/quote]yes
coroplast between liner and xpac
From my experience with rando bags I would advise against side and front pockets and instead just make the main box larger. The front pocket tends to take up a bunch of room and look big from the outside but ultimately doesn’t have as much storage as a slightly larger bag in that dimension. The front pocket also adds a whole bunch of unnecessary holes to an area that takes the most battering from moisture. IME everything in my front pockets gets drenched in the rain, stays damp and the bonus seams allow moisture to wick into the main compartment.
I also found side pockets on the Swift bag were really dumb. They sometimes interfered with integrated shifters and didn’t add any extra storage since they were tapered at the edges instead of boxed out to add volume. If you are going to add side pockets make sure there is some sort of closure system. Wide open pockets facing the sky are a terrible idea.
Rear pockets facing the rider are actually pretty useful and rarely see moisture since they are down-wind from the incoming rain. I haven’t seen it done yet but making them larger & more like a feedbag style would be awesome.
The front pocket thing is kinda true. I put my ziploc’d toilet paper + sanitizer in there so DGAF if wet. If making my own rando box, would skip front + side pockets.
Ooh, that’s a good idea. Was thinking one rear pocked sized for a beer can, but additionally making it cord-closure like the feedbags seems to be super useful
Thanks for the tips all re: skipping front pouches - makes sense
my front pouch has spare tube/tools/armwarmers.
i too would advise against “pockets” on the side but little slit pockets (for flat stuff/brevet cards/spent gu packets and wrappers/cell phone) can be useful.
2 back pockets with bungee closure: 12oz can/16oz can size would be A+++++++
also slit pockets on the inside can be helpful for organization IME
I love that kona
That’s awesome, face.
that’s inspiring
That is great!
Wait a sec is that a 69er?