mine stood up to rain ok – but it was insanely heavy, and no one had any clue what to do with the data. there was no way to download it to the mac I had then, so you could only look at avg watts. I unloaded it after the winter for a – hold on – first gen chorus group, which kind of sucked but was quite pretty.
finally got a stages arm and a cateye stealth evo+. no clue what i’m doing. i’ll probably do a test in a week or two…
excited though
Sure. It’s the level of tolerable imprecision. A well setup SRM or Powertap can get under 3% IIRC. Everything else on the market has had problems getting that close, mostly with temperature calibration. From what I’ve read, the Stages unit does a pretty good job with that. For most people then, the error is quite small (1-2%) at power outputs that don’t show a L/R discrepancy and slightly more (5-6%) at power outputs that do. Since there’s so little of the latter and so much of the former in an average training ride, the end result tends to be nearly as good as can be expected from any PM.
Note: Numbers are from my recollection and I’ve done a lot of drugs in my life.
Then there’s the fact that most of this only matters when estimating training stress vs. hitting a specific power output for a training regimen. I suspect that most folks with a power meter aren’t measuring training stress very closely or training enough for it to really matter.
Coggan spewed some hyperbole about the Stages based on his opinion, then backed it up with data that didn’t support it. That guy is prone to hyperbole. He’s got a weird attitude about anything that has to do with training with power.
My Stages does a much better job dealing with temperature changes than my SRM did. With the SRM I’d re-calibrate after a few min and mid-ride a lot of times (given this is easy), but the Stages basically never needs it (I’ll do it once a week, and it only ever changes by one number or so).
I think this is something that people tend to willfully overlook; an SRM operating 3% off due to a temp change is worse than a Stages operating a bit off due to being one leg, I’d guess. It came up more with those Quarqs that had big issues, but lots of folks still use those.
Totally agreed.
The numbers that I quoted (<3%) error were from properly calibrated power meters. Which could mean anything in actual use.
Most of my experience was with the powertap, which worked really well in this regard. It had issues with drivetrain losses and whatnot, but otherwise, the temperature stuff was spot on.
the powertap is really good at handling temp changes. the drivetrain loss is only about 5 to maybe 10w, but it’s consistent as long as you change chains promptly.
where I’ve seen powertaps get futzy is with the out of the box offset. I had two wired and three wireless models, and two of the wireless came out of the box wildly high or low (20-30w off) – even though the torque offset was in the acceptable range. They don’t like the static weight test due to possible user error, but after I showed them ride files and torque test data to show how far the torque tubes were out, they took them back. Once they were corrected by Saris, they were within 5w of the other hubs, and stayed that way. Great product – if it comes out of the box right.
That’s some straight up mystical crochet glove bullshit.
That’s some straight up mystical crochet glove bullshit.[/quote]
Don’t forget fixed gear in the winter. Favorite of crotchety old men.
That’s some straight up mystical crochet glove bullshit.[/quote]
Don’t forget fixed gear in the winter. Favorite of crotchety old men.[/quote]
oh yeah
imagine my confusion in the fixie hey-day of '08 when i learned that the weekly fixed gear ride that left from the main bike shop in town all winter was actually a ride for fast 60 year old dudes who trained on fixed gears in the winter.
That’s some straight up mystical crochet glove bullshit.[/quote]
Don’t forget fixed gear in the winter. Favorite of crotchety old men.[/quote]
oh yeah
imagine my confusion in the fixie hey-day of '08 when i learned that the weekly fixed gear ride that left from the main bike shop in town all winter was actually a ride for fast 60 year old dudes who trained on fixed gears in the winter.[/quote]
TC: currently looking for an old path racer-y frame for sw8 fixie shenanigans
(x-post from Conspicuous Constipation thread)
Anyone else have the new version cadence/speed sensors? Anyone notice any wonky speed readings? I’l go from 22mph to 12mph for a second and right back up to 22. I think the software might ignore that 12 reading when displaying your stats but I’m not 100% sure. Does Garmin’s website smooth out the data or is it done by the Edge 510 itself?
Mostly just trying to figure out if the behavior is expected or my stuff is defective.
[quote=m4bandit](x-post from Conspicuous Constipation thread)
Anyone else have the new version cadence/speed sensors? Anyone notice any wonky speed readings? I’l go from 22mph to 12mph for a second and right back up to 22. I think the software might ignore that 12 reading when displaying your stats but I’m not 100% sure. Does Garmin’s website smooth out the data or is it done by the Edge 510 itself?
Mostly just trying to figure out if the behavior is expected or my stuff is defective.[/quote]
No, the speed sensor just sucks. I have one and it does the same thing. Looked up reviews, same issue. Had much better speed readings from just gps data.
Cadence sensor works great. my guess is the tiny circle it’s spinning around in on the hub just doesnt make for accurate data from the accelerometer.
That’s a bummer. I guess I should have just opted for the GSC-10. I don’t remember it ever doing anything like that. I was thinking to myself that the GPS data felt more accurate but maybe it’s just because it didn’t visibly bounce around like that? I wonder if this new little hub guy is just as accurate due to the smoothing that Garmin Connect does. Hmmmmm.
the gsc-10 is definitely more accurate since it uses reed switches, but the speed portion is prone to breaking. i have had the speed portion break on 2 so far.
I’ve got an ideal candidate for you in my stable that’s actually old and path racery
it’s even british racing green with some gold and chrome
so, i lost my garmin at a race the other night when i set it down on the roof of my car and took off. it was just the cheap one that doesn’t have any features because luddite, but it still hurts since it’s the second one i lose.
so i get to thinking maybe i should replace it with something different. like, i could get one of these devices that does more than record my gps coordinates, right? heck, it would be completely within the realm of possibility for me to RIDE WITH POWER!
the problem is, i don’t know what these devices are. help me, tarck! i’m thinking i might be better suited by something hub based cuz my bikes r campy, swapping would be nice, and would want to use different pedals. also, don’t really gaf if race data cuz tubulars.
is the powertap my best bet? something else? can i even be trusted to have nice things?
I can hook you up with a great price on a last gen (sl+) power tap for campy, got one languishing at the shop.
can anyone give me tips on courses with garmin?
It keeps thinking I am off course or missed a turn and then some how magically corrects itself (hours) later.
I think it keeps routing me off course then back on course sometimes. Like it will say go down X street, turn around and keep going. Or If I go through an intersection differently than what it has imagined.
What am I doing wrong? Do i need to add more dots on garmin connect? At what point will it stop asking to recalculate
if i stop the route will it offer a resume option while I am on the route?
This has nothing to do with power. I have none power.
+1 on the new garmin speed sensors sucking
I had one work great for three months, then just die on me when I changed the battery
followed garmin’s tech support advice, still dead
they said send it back – I just threw it away and put on an old generic ANT+ chainstay sensor and wheel magnet. works.
[quote=turpencat]can anyone give me tips on courses with garmin?
It keeps thinking I am off course or missed a turn and then some how magically corrects itself (hours) later.
I think it keeps routing me off course then back on course sometimes. Like it will say go down X street, turn around and keep going. Or If I go through an intersection differently than what it has imagined.
What am I doing wrong? Do i need to add more dots on garmin connect? At what point will it stop asking to recalculate
if i stop the route will it offer a resume option while I am on the route?
This has nothing to do with power. I have none power.[/quote]
Do you have “Stay on roads” checked when you look at the course in edit mode?