I’m looking to offset the seat tube forward of BB center for tire clearance, which would rule out a clamp-on FD. Thinking I’ll 3D print a clamp on to DM adapter with the offset built in. So… high direct mount or low direct mount?
Still wondering how slack I should get. Somewhere between regular roadbike and Full PVD, but where?
Oh such a good thread revival. Time to shit up this thread with my Stoemper dithering instead of shartq’s.
Okay I’ve decided to go back to my original idea of di2 1x with climbing shifters integrated into the hood. This might be a shartq but here we go, I need the brainpower of tarck for my di2 questions. Please check over my di2 plan.
I will have a climbers shifter (SW-R600) on the right hood. It will connect to the 3 port cockpit junction box (EW90-A) in the seattube. Connected to the junction box will be the internal battery (BT-DN1101) and the rear mech (RD-M8050-GS).
Does that all make sense? I really need input from shopbros and di2 people that know what they’re talking about because I barely understand cable actuated compatibility. Remember that 95% of my riding for the past 15 years has been on a track bike. This is like having a lawnmower mechanic try to design the next mars rover.
Also because I’m going to be using the cockpit junction box but mounted internally I’m going to need to design and print something to hold the battery and junction box in the seat tube. That will be my first time 3d printing something and my first foray into 3d modeling since I was like 18. Is 3d viz still a thing? Fuck man I’m going to be so god damn behind the times. Do we have a 3d printing thread?
btw the reason I’m using the 3 port cockpit junction box for internal mount is that is includes a charging port. Technically I could use a 4 port internal box and use a premade sleeve for it and the battery but then I’d have to remove the whole unit to charge it or use an external battery. This way with the 3-port I can make a little extension cord that will stick out the top of the seattube into the saddle and just plug that in when I need to.
Dood, eTap with wifli rear. You don’t get a clutch dangler, but no fucking wires!
For Di2 I left the junksion box glued under the stem. You never know it’s there and that’s where I get my charging port. Everything else is inside. I’m confused, where do you plan to charge from?
I have a seatmast so I have 3 options, listed in likelihood of me actually doing.
Mount under the saddle.
Mount in seatmast above battery and remover topper to charge
Make little extension cord that pops out of the top of the topper
Having now written out those option and also it no longer being 4am listening to showtunes, drinking whiskey, and planning out my ostentatious build I think I’ve realized that mounting it under the saddle is going to be the easiest non-stem approach. Making an extension cord would require a donor charger to harvest the proprietary plugs.
Also I have considered etap because I could get a group for next to nothing from industry hookups but again, I fucking abhor dot fluid. So…no. And half the reason I’m doing this weird setup is that it is what was on the bike before and the bike came with hydro single speed levers already setup. So I’d have to buy all new everything and cost wise this breaks even with other options.
I won’t have too bad of wiring. I have a wire port near the dropout. So I’ll have the wiring heat shrunk to the hosing coming off the right hood, that enters the frame and while the hydro hose continues onto the back the wiring will split off and hang out in the seatmast meeting up with all it’s electronic buddies until continuing down through the seattube, past the bb, and through the chainstay. Bingo bango, no exposed wiring.
That’s what I did (I taped since hose is external and already attached to caliper). Still only notice stem junction when I look for it. It’s crazy glued in place so no strapon. Are you going to use the Y wire so only one extends into frame? What about bar end junction box, charge from bar plug
Peter, this is unrelated to your post but I’ve begun watching Star Trek: The Next Generation for the first time and just finished the Haven episode last night.
When Homn materializes on the Enterprise I yelled out “OMG, IT’S PETER!!!”
Well I just went down the rabbit hole of umpty claimed- compatible yet conflicting disc brake specs. After laying out a bunch of them in CAD, I think flatmount180.org is bullshit and PVD’s numbers are probably close.
Sundealthering, I need to do something to make this bike rideable and either ride it or get rid of it. I’m thinking of making it single speed with an old shorty dangler for tension, and using it as a salt and slop winter commuter. Whats a good gear ratio with 20" wheels? 52x16? I might also try to bolt a fixed cog to the 6 bolt side of the hub and magic ratio a fixed gear out of it, which is a far dumber idea.
losing tools makes me crazier than almost anything else in the world. i hate it so much. i lost my nice 5mm from that colored swisstools set and i’m so frustrated.