I realized the headset threads are stripped on this bike’s 9/8 threaded fork, only after putting a top pull front derailleur on it with campy seattube shifters
have been thinking it could get a Crust Clydesdale fork?
I worry that when I retire I won’t be able to afford to maintain all my bikes. But they are worth nothing so it makes no sense selling them, plus I still use them all. I think if I had to I could go down to a hardtail and a groad bike that was 99% gr.
fist off, yes @JUGE_FREDD , that seems like a logical option. still go for the 1”. i’m running mine with part of a box conversion headset and cups from a ritchey headset that took 36/45 bearings. you get two sets of bearings with the deal and it works great. or get rauce to machine you bits to hold bearings.
i have 5 bikes. trail mtb, nice steel roadie, ti cx/allroad from 2012, an endpoint hg coffee grinder, and my clydesdale’d marin 26” muirwoods
i mostly only ride the clydesdale and either the ti bike or the endpoint. right now endpoint is not assembled so it’s nice having that redundancy. roadie is on the trainer and sometimes i wanna get rid of it.
i also think the endpoint could do all the stuff the ti bike is doing fine. but that bike and the road bike are from a builder who has known me for longer than my memory goes so it feels odd getting rid of one, especially the ti bike since it was actually made for me and it was so exciting to get.
mtb barely gets rides but damn nothing else cuts it for what i do use it for.
i could turn 5 into 3 but it doesn’t feel quite right.
Not sure if this is a dither or a shart Q, or probably a little bit of philosophical dither…
Got a Chisel 29er hardtail frame from Uncle Mike, going to build up with a rigid carbon fork. Going for a MTB’ers gravel bike vibe or whatever. Was originally planning on building up with one of these new super wide ass drop bars (probably a Ritchey Beacon XL) but then I saw the updated VO Crazy Bar and that gave me pause. WWTBD?
GX Eagle, the frame will accommodate a max 36t chainring. Would use a microshift bar end shifter with drop bars.
Edit: maybe sram 11speed 10-42 would give me enough of it, opening up the option for shakes. Got 11-42 with a 40t chainring on my Kona Rove and that’s been doing me fine.
I did a similar build this summer, and I wasn’t stoked on it. Used the VO Daija Far Bar and tried to set it up more road bike than dirt drop to make it not look weird. Wrist angle ended up not great, and the shifter tab hit my fingers under aggressive braking. I think I could get it better with more rise to the stem / getting bars higher and not expecting to be able to use the hoods at all.
Would love to hear any other insights, as I thought it looked cool as hell.
Optimal true dirt-drop setup means you are riding in the hooks, and the levers (and stem height) are set up to make that position A+ the best. Your hands are very secure and comfortably held and you can get easy controllable power on the brakes.
Pay no mind to the hoods position when worrying about lever position, they become a verysometimes place for your hands on long boring flat sections or slow climbing.
It’s possible with those bars you have I think the ergo shape means you can’t get your hands as comfy deep in the hooks, as they bend away from the levers too abruptly. But that’s just eyeballing things very hard to say what will work for you.
Edit: Not RM-013, these were some other black anodized Nitto dirt drop that I never determined the exact model, but they have more flare than the RM-013 does. Nitto RM-013
My goal with this summer was ’ Lynskey 29er into gravel bike.’ In retrospect, I think my hands are just too big to make the drops work (with those bars), so I ended up with some horrible conglomeration of poor fit. I’ve been meaning to try again with some 46cm cowbells, but haven’t gotten around to it.
What bars are those? I typically wear XXL gloves, but more for hand width than finger length. TBH for a gravel-ish bike I ended up back at just using a mostly-normal drop bar with a bit of flare.