I think you’re going to end up with a loop of hose coming out of the front of the extensions if you use the crosstops. It’ll have to be a continuous hose run through the sub lever.
You might be able to bodge something together with these quick coupler banjo fittings to make a 90° bend. Q-Connector - Bicycle Hydraulic Quick Coupler – zenocycle
Chopping the carbon steer tube with a pipe cutter then using scissors to snip loose fibers holy lol
dude makes his own carbon bike with aluminum “lugs” cut from an old bike in one video. i love this.
Ha ha. Not seen that one yet. That threaded rod with the vice-grip gets used a lot ; )
I have looked for something that would get you to a 90 degree bend but not at the caliper itself and I’ve not found anything yet.
I assume that non-banjo calipers are not easily made banjoable.
Isn’t this what some of the early “road” hydraulics were. Mtb levers as cross tops with a cable linkage from a road lever to the mtb lever. You need like the reverse of this. Magura / Shimano Twin Caliper Hydraulic Disc Brake
I’m not sure that a Y/T connector will work. The interrupter lever doesn’t have a reservoir to push fluid from.
grx has levers for drop tops you just hook up both levers to each caliper
just scrolled up and figured out we are trying to solve a problem for a youtube guy that will never see the answer
I think the sub levers have a check valve rather than a piston in them.
My current thought is use an aero cable lever, but have it pull on a sub lever mounted on the tops. That would be similar to how the hydro brake prototypes worked with the piston mounted under the stem.
The sub levers work like regular levers - when you squeeze the lever the piston slides past a compensator port cutting off the reservoir. Only in this case the lever doesn’t have reservoir because the system is using the reservoir of the main lever. The compensator port is connected to the main lever output.
I don’t think you can T two levers since squeezing one will just inflate the reservoir on the other. Maybe there’s some kind of fancy balancing valve that can isolate one lever from the other, but a simple T connector only works for adding caliper pistons.
Yep, the crosstops need to be strictly downstream from the primary levers. This is fine in and of itself but the entry point and entry angle for the crosstop lever is such that to put them on an aero extension would need a big loop of hose coming out the front.
I’ve got almost enough parts from all this idiotic dithering to rebuild the Trail Boss bmx, meaning I can stop beating the shit out of the 125R race bike when I’m casing jumps over and over at the trails. I’m going out of town in the morning but maybe when I’m back Sunday I can slap some shit together and have two whole bmx bikes to trip over in the hallway.
Going to be starting a new project this summer, and I anticipate it taking a long time to finish mostly because I don’t really know in what direction I want to take it.
I want to just get the bike riding before the dither begins in earnest so that means a fork, wheels & tires, and a u-brake for the rear at the very least.
I have a frame and a box of parts, including a Rockshox fork that I don’t really want to use. I’m either going to get a rigid fork and put a basket on it, or do something really dumb and get a Girvin or AMP linkage fork.
Probably going to stick with rim brakes just so finding a wheelset will be easier.
Are 26" rigid MTB forks pretty much all the same if I was to go to a co-op or eBay to find one? Any particular ones to avoid? I guess a chrome Sunlite or something would work, but while I don’t want to spend a lot of money I’d rather get something with a bit of personality over cheap & from JBI.
Thankfully the headtube length gives me a lot of options:
Oh shit I had that same bike once!
Most 26" rigid rigid rim-brake forks will be in a decent range of A-C. You might find one or two suspension-corrected. If the fork is rim and disc brake, there’s a higher likelihood of being suspension corrected.
Very ATMO, but anything except a curved-blade unicrown will look sweet on that. Straight blade unicrown (i.e. Kona), curved blade segmented, etc.
Or Clydesdale.
Holding a black dirt jump style generic disc tabs that I don’t think has been used. For shipping. Will throw in a clapped out future shock for free
I’m in a similar boat with the Goodwill Kona I just picked up. I’ve been combing the internet and came up with this $99 Carver fork that looks similar to the old Project Two forks.
I think that Carver is an excellent option.
The Magic fork looks damn sweet too.
Or stridsland if you want to add a bunch of bags and racks and cages.
What Rock Shox fork do you have? Mag 21, or something else?
