Find an FH-6400 in 7sp 126mm-way? Then use parts of an 11sp cassette to make a … 9 of 11? that’ll fit on the shorty freehub?
Or get a nice ultegra/da 8-10sp hub (6500/6600/7700 would look good) and if it doesn’t very easily fit into the frame as a 130mm OLD hub, space it down. The lower bracing angle will still be better than a freewheel axle bender.
the pressure from the frame wanting to spring back in 2mm isn’t going to be the thing that kills your hubs. You put way more pressure on them from the QR than the frame adds.
i thought the problem was that when you clamp a mismatched OLD the dropouts are not square with the locknuts and this loads the bearings in a weird way? (but as Elliott says, angular-contact ones can tolerate it)
oooh yes 7sp hyperglide mix&match would give me almost all of it. I just wonder if those have modern enough bearing seals that I can forget about them for two years of all-weather riding and not get burnt.
Edit for tarcksterity: looks like FH-6401 is the one. 6400 is uniglide; 6402 is 8s/130mm
It’s worth noting that a number of old Trek bikes are low-trail 27"/700c
Is there an ideal handling line for trail/tire? (+/- handlebar? wheel diameter?)
Like 35mm of trail is shit with 25mm tires but great with 47mm tires. Same at the other end - 80mm trail sucks with 38mm tires but is good with 55mm tires.
The Trek brochures I looked at from 79/80 were around 46mm trail with 27x1 tires, that seems pretty exciting but 
73 x 55mm offset with a 700x32 is 49mm trail which isn’t really low
don’t give me ideas
ed-nvm turp said it already
IRD is claiming that their new freewheels are of substantially higher quality than other those of other manufacturers. I have no idea if there is any validity to this claim
I don’t care if it’s better than a SunTour winner pro, I would happily never ever have to remove a freewheel from a screw on hub ever again.
Oh yeah, I mean freewheels are objectively terrible design and I would never use one
5500, 6500, 7700, 5600, 6600, 7800, 5700, 6700, 7900 hubs can all be made 126 by removing one spacer from the NDS, shortening the axle 4 mm and calling it a day.
did this with a 135 hub i needed to make into 130. ended up making a spacer out of the NDS locknut from a nexus 3 hub drilled out, which was free and worked great.
same, took a 135mm 8sp XT and pulled the 5mm NDS spacer and chopped the axle down. one super nice 8-10sp silver hub ready to build up for commuting use.
This is always the correct answer.
I do this at least 3 times a year with some JBI prebuilt wheel for a customer. Works great.
Accidentally ended up with a 650 Pacenti Brevet and spokes for a 32h shimano dyno hub. Strongly considering building a bike around this mistake.
I had hoped to avoid the marginal tension-balance thoughtfulness that 11sp or 10-in-126 would entail. Should I not care? My rough plan was revs or d-lights NDS comp/race DS with linseed on the NDS.
@EndpointBraden does tension not get a little weird when you re-dish?
Not weird enough. It’s always on a fairly heavy rim with straight gauge DT spokes on a machine built wheel though.
If you are starting from a hub get one of the DT asymmetric rims and get extra nerdy by taking out whatever washer is between the cone and lock nut on the drive side first then mess with the non-drive.
Use Race on both sides.
huh! isn’t that sort of the worst case for managing marginal bracing angles? Or is a heavy rim an advantage?
I thought tarck was into mixing spoke gauges for this situation? Does the asym rim obviate that? Thanks for reminding me that’s an option
(for context I am like 140lbs which is why I feel like I can go ham with spokes)