Race are already lighter than comps so why mess with a good thing?
But yeah… asymmetrical rim. Yolo.
oh DT comp race? duh, that makes sense, thanks
getting confused in all kindsa ways, whoops
I mean Sapim race is already lighter than DT comp. At least in my experience.
Sapim Race and has Sapim secure lock nipples.
Bad idea or baddest idea?: Get one of those Sun XCD 120mm OLD cassette hubs and add spacers to make it 126?
On the topic of hubs, I have a STX-RC that appears to be only 7speed. Is there any way to make this 8/9/10 or 11 ?
would need new axle though right?
Yeah, you can swap cassette bodies between most Shimano hubs. Remove the axle then iirc a 10mm allen wrench will undo the hollow fixing bolt. I did the opposite (9 -> 7) to build a tandem wheel with less dishing…
I was gonna buy a ps4 and some games but decided I’d much much rather use the $ to fix nagging problems on my most ridden bikes and buy some nice parts for the old steel frame I’ve got kicking around to make a stripped down SS version of my VO Campeur, something I’ve wanted for years.
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I was thinking about hydraulic upgrade to the gravel/road/whatever bike. But it looks like $500ish for 7020 levers, 11s drivetrain stuff, and post mount calipers. Plus hooking it all up.
But everything on the bike (10s Force) feels great. So I’m thinking I should just try to get a little more stopping power out of the Spyres that are already on there. I might have used some janky rotors or some kind of resin/metallic combo that just doesn’t stop great? (I know these are not tarck’s favorite brakes, but I would rather throw less than $100 at this than $500+). Is there some 6 bolt rotor/pad combo that really works well?
These Galfer ones are well-reviewed. I’ve never heard of them, but review mention they come from a moto background.
https://www.jensonusa.com/Galfer-Wave-Disc-Brake-Rotor
The Hayes CX pro calipers are substantially better than the spyre. I have Rival hydros on the other bike and I can’t say they are really that much better.
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If I grabbed a set of those, what rotors? I’m pretty sure whatever I have on there now is crap and I want to start fresh.
They come with rotors that are perfectly ok.
Make sure to use full jagwire compressionless housing and they will be very good.
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I have Yokozuna compressionless. Is the Pro significantly better than the expert or is it just weight?
Sorry, expert is good. Get that. There was a cheaper version that was not good.
well done! i got a set a while back and was kinda blown away. a bit noisy in the wet but i also have spyres and it’s night and day.
is the noisy because semi-metallic pad, or other? seems like there’s mostly two pads available, one semi metallic and one organic.
either way i’ll take noise over being garbage at stopping
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Do we know why the Hayes are better than Spyres or BB7 or CX75, like, mechanically?
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Yes.
The Hayes, to my knowledge, is the only mechanical with a single piece forged caliper body. Everything else is a more flexy clamshell design.
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Tektro MD-300 is also one piece caliper body. I’m not sure if Tektro is the source, but there are a couple of others out there from more obscure mfrs too.
Edit: Probably cast, not forged.
Seconding Hayes cx with good housing. I have it and have no desire to go hydro really.
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the hayes are also pretty darn big, and not giant on the spoke side. i feel like all that meat counts for something. but unlike spyres you don’t need to shim rotors with hubs that put the spokes kinda far out. like “see how much space it takes to make it work? no way are you gonna do that on both sides”
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