I was trying to suss it out by reading reviews. One dude said he thought the Hayes move the pads more for a given amount of cable travel. Seems like that could be down to the “tpi” of the spiral bearing ramp and/or the geometry of the lever arm.
If it moves the pads more per length cable it’ll be weaker, all else being equal.
At the lever the stroke feels the same as any other mechanical. Once you get pad contact the improvement in power is impressive. I’m pretty certain it’s 100% the reduced flex in the caliper and the stiffness of the actuator arm.
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On this topic, does anyone want to trade my 10s Shimano hydroshakes (Tiagra levers, SLX calipers) for your SRAM 10s whatever cableshakes? Also could trade appropriate derailleurs.
RS405 or 4720?
405s? The TRON joystick ones.
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that’s one of the big problems with the bb7 road. same geometry, steepened ramp for the ballbearians
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I think you’re right. About the only other mechanical (drop-bar-friendly) caliper that feels as rigid is the Klamper (but not necessarily “better”).
Huh, dry dicks are deceptively complex.
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It’s true.
At least I don’t have to bleed them.
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Hayes CX (Pro and Expert) are a serious sleeper component. Way better than everything on the market, but it’s just sold as a cheap OEM component, without Prolz marketing or some gimmick like dual pistons, so no one outside of Tarck gives a shit
I have been using them and extolling their virtues for like seven years now so I feel vindicated. And yes, compressionless housing really is a must, and once everything is dialed, the only thing better is a pair of pre-leaking Shimano wet brakes
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This also reminds me of a conversation I had with two of my old shops “expert” mechanics who insisted that the Hayes couldn’t be better than BB7 or Spyre because the pad was smaller and therefore had less stopping power
One of those guys is designing Rad Powers now
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The pad size thing is definitely a red herring.
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Why shouldn’t I drill my new Raceface 30 internal rims for Schrader?
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You are not making a good argument for me to trade my Force which I like with dr. welby for his Tiagra with fugly levers.
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Do it
I have a set of Hayes in the partsbin. The TRON levers brake nicely, I just can’t stand the wiggly levers and it seems easier to go SRAM than decipher the Campy rear derailleur options. Plus clutch.
I always think I should drill the rims on my NFE for Schrader, so in a punch, I could pick up a 26” tube at any country hardware or rural Walmart. I only don’t because it would fuck up my tubeless situation
Run motorcycle or car valve stems.
Stan’s sells Schrader stems
tongue twister?
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