just waiting on some spray.bike to do this teardown and rebuild 
I think the only other bike I feel like I want to ride/own is a swb spaceframe jones
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My landlord gave me her old 1985 Mongoose ATB. Not sure what to do with it but built it up as a fixie for now.
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keep_on_truckin’.jpg
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Q for people with 2x shrams, what kind of tactile feedback does your left shakes give you? Like, can you probe the front lever and feel wich ring you’re in, without looking or initiating a shift?
you can probe indeed, if there’s some gentle resistance (friction of cable in housing and the spring) you’re in the little ring, if it’s some unencumbered free throw ur hella big babe
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great (that means you can halfstep with doubletaps)
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Better that than dubstep with halfletaps!
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I think I’m finally going to tubeless my Fargo. Probably just COVID boredom.
Any particular valves, tape, or sealant I should pick up? Wtb I-19 rims if that matters. I’ve never tubelessed anything before
Tesa 8898 tape is the same as the stuff you can buy from the shop, but without the bike product tax.
I like Stans valves, but I’ve used cheap fun anodized valves off of amazon/ebay with no problems except for the time one of them pulled through the rim because the rubber stopper at the base was too skinny.
All the brand name stuff works. Cheapo tape works. Yeah, most of those Amazon valves probably work. It works. I’d say Stan’s for fatter tires (actual mtb stuff) and Orange Seal for narrower things.
Orange seal all the things.
I really like the mucoff valves because they can not pull through and have replaceable rubber grommets in different sizes. There’s asany good valves as there are shitty ones. A good valve may not fit the rim either way. Going with the valve recommended by the rim manufacturer is also a safe bet.
Make sure the tape is the right width, the rim is very clean, and you stretch the tape on tightly with no bubbles.
Gonna throw some love in here for the Serfas valves. Cheap, ano, has wrench flats on the nut, comes with a core remover and presta adapter!
Not sure what to do with my Heavy ass old Mongoose 26er. Been riding it with 700c fixed gear with 40mm tires and it’s super fun. Bottom bracket is stupid high and with 165mm cranks I don’t even worry about pedal striking on anything…rolls right over logs and through super rutted out single track no problem. but it’s reeeaaallly hard to skid or stop fast if I have to so It’s not, per se, safe. I’m thinking smaller wheels might make it easier to stop but I don’t know if that makes sense or not.
Put 26 inch wheels with a freewheel on it today and rode some trails. Fun but not quite as fun. I have a track hub I’m not using and think I’m gonna have a wheel built. Should I build a 650b wheel? 26? 700c with a front break?
Also, I drunk bought a sweet purple quill stem on ebay to put on it but didn’t read the description and it’s 1 1/8. so if anyone has a 1 1/8 threaded fork for some reason and needs a stem let me know.
I guess with 559 erd or maybe even 584 erd you could, yano, use brakes.
Yes.
559 erd no problem…finding brakes that would reach 584 erd wheels might be tricky. I have a 1" steamroller fork I could use if I run 622 with brakes.
What Mongoose -is it an IBOC with the straight bladed fork?
Not every old rigid MTB needs to be turned into a basket dadbike urban shredder, but most do.
1985 ATB
Have an 80s rockhopper basketdadshredder. The Goose needs to be drinking 40ozs in the woods/fuck around bike.
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Strongly considering getting this and throwing it on the Crux, and then building a 12x100 dyno wheel.
Might have to fuck around and spray.bike the frame if I do that tho
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