This is exactly what I did before I built my first fixed bike since I didn’t want to budget for more than one cog.
Doesn’t sound trite. Sounds smart.
you have sram on that thing right? get it in gear and zip tie the paddles to the levers. single speed trial run
No. Shimano. I’m banned from SRAM for life :).
(not actually. I just got in a bunch of trouble for running a SRAM bike when I’m sponsored by Shimano)
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ah. right. well, that trick works with sram.
poopbarning chainring talk–what can i expect for 48/31 vs 46/30 rings when i’m swapping from 50/34? I think i have an 11-34 in the back. Would a ratio below 1:1 be useful at all if i’m not riding with any bags?
It’s useful. There’s never been a time where I wished I had more high end to trade for more low end on a bike with tires bigger than 32. There’s always a time to spin up a hill (unless you live in Chicago as I understand it).
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44/11 has always been tall enough for me in the PNW with 700x40c. I’d go 46/30 so that the 46 is more useful more often and you’ll only need to shift to the 30 as a “low range” for more sustained climbing.
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Running a 46/30 with an 11-34 right now. By the time I spin out I’m going fast enough, and I’ve definitely thought of getting a 11-36 in the back.
30/34 crü checking in. Spinning up that hill.
hills are enough here that i think about 48/31 x11-34 instead of the 46/30 x 32. yeah 46x11 does it but i have trouble cracking 50 on the ditherer and good lord i’m slow on the ups
I’ve been on 50-34 11-28 forever now and by the end of this week I will finally have 48-32 11-32 on my black bike. I am excited for less grinding.
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50-34/11-36 and 46-30/11-34 cru. Never feels bad to have that sub 1-1 gear for chilling up a hill. My commute to work basically ends with a 1/3 mile uphill at 9% followed by a brief flat into the parking lot. I go full bail out almost every time. Feels good man.
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This is what I had on my traditional steel rando when that is what I rode primarily. TBH I would love this again but I don’t know how to achieve it with SRAM E-Tap 11 speed, the lowest gearing that is feasible is the 48-32 11-32 that I’m doing, as far as I know.
What’s to stop you changing your crankset? I don’t get it.
I don’t think I can get my derailleur that low on that bike
Given a 48 tooth large ring has a circumference of approximately 24 inches, the radius at the teeth (inch-pitch chain) is 3.82 inches.
A 46 tooth large ring has a radius of 3.66 inches, so that 0.16 inch is likely not going to make a great difference as long as you have enough space at the bottom of the cage for the 0.16 inch change there.
TL;DR unless you’re already at the absolute limit of your gorilla there’s probably enough room for it to work.
NB: I was always the guy who defended the customers who bought the wrong crank arm by 2.5mm and only found out about it when they took their bike to the shop. 0.1 inch isn’t much, and most people aren’t that symmetrical.
When I first got the black bike, I had mtb cranks and 46-30 rings with Campagnolo Record mechanical. That worked just barely okay. Then when I etaped my bike it didn’t work at all and I switched to a conventional 50-34. Now at the time 10 years ago when I got the bike, there were almost no options for 46-30 rings so I had some crappy rotor ovals on there, so it could have been the rings.
There are a lot more options now so I could probably get it to work. You can see in this picture that my derailleur clamp is literally resting against the bottom cage bolt.
Anyway doesn’t matter, I already have everything for 48/32 11-32 and that’s what I’m doing
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Yeah a bike that’s built and works is better than the endless dither.
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That’s not true and you know that
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