Maybe even a bit less. I cant recall when I last used it, a long time ago, but I seem to remember thinking it wasn’t 100% straight…
Installed this sweet bag boi from brooks today. Also switched to platform pedals on this bike. I’m going platform on the road bike. Goodbye weird shoes
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Niiiice also sweet DTHs
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Building a bike for my wife. Shes coming off a cheap 26" Fuji MTB. Should be quite the upgrade. No she isn’t getting my Flite, my ENVE bar, or my Ksyrium SLRs that retail for like $1800 lol. TBH I will probably build it with a flat bar and 1x drivetrain. Already own pretty much everything to build it.
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New wheels day
They’ve only been 40 km or so and they already look a bit gross. I love em though!
They are midlife crisis hubs (SON28 front and DA9000 rear) laced with sapim force in the back, race in front using polyax nipples and washers to Kinlin XR22ts. My GP4000’s are 32+ mm on these things and feeling great. They seem stiffer than my tb14 wheels did and i’m looking forward to setting them up tubeless.
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BB90? I’d divorce you. Proceed with caution.
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Agreed BB90 sucks. I would divorce me regardless of bb standards. I’ve had good luck with the two part Park retaining compound stuff, forget the part numbers.
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rebuilt the endpoint from the ground up today, it’s amazing how a “new” bike feels compared to a clapped-out bike.
I’d post pictures but the hoses are held on with grocery store twist ties until I can get zipties, and the dynolight isn’t installed yet.
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Installed the 42T ring on the day/ruiner and messed with the IRD pusher dropper yesterday. It’s fine I guess. It doesn’t play well with Grant’s least favorite pushers (R8000 on mine) without removing some material for the pusher to clear when in the big ring. It also needs to be mounted as far down in the slot as possible. It’s also a little flexy, which was expected, but it feels different when shifting. At least on the stand.
Thinking that modifying the Problem Solvers adapter is a better way to go. Lots less flex with just that.
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Shart q: do you have the support screw braced?
made a ridiculous difference when the 6800 long arm bois first came out and i had to wrench on bikes built by people who didn’t rtfm. also fuck anyone who thought they didn’t need a barrel adjuster
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I’d say at least 75% of the 11s Shimano bikes we see for the first time don’t have it properly set. Some from the factory, but most have been in the wild for a while.
I did, but the final setup will need either a new plate or the adhesive pulled of the old one and new sticky stuff applied.
Even without that set, it was still much more solid on the PS jawn.
I took a video of the flex, just don’t have anywhere easy to host it.
Dang.
SQ: does that thing really make that much of a difference? I got a bike recently with a current gen shimano fd and they didn’t set it up with the support bolt or plate at all, so I don’t actually even have the plate. the shifting wasn’t dialed in right from the shop so I rtfm’d to do it myself, and that’s when I realized there was this new support bolt and plate thingy. I got it working right without the support bolt, but I want to try and track down a plate if it makes that much of a difference.
I’ve seen it transform shifting, I think it’s a good idea. I can see if there’s one at the shop tomorrow I could mail ya.
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I recall setting that bracing screw when I first built the ruiner, and there’s a mark on the plate from the screw. When I was messing with it the other day the screw was backed way away from the plate and I never even noticed a problem with front shifting at all. Don’t do a whole lot of front shifting tho.
Flexy flex, pulling on the cable with my hand.
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This is not very surprising to me at least.
Huh, didn’t realize this feature existed.
For those Tarckers that have never set one up or seen the screw before:
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