It’s ok… I’m confused with just about everything except bike parts.
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TIL
Thanks Braden
planning on doing this when my fleet of gx/x9 10s danglers i’m running 11 on start to die
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This is why thru axle and vertical drop are the only way geared bike should come
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Mine is thru-axel and its still a PITA. Pretty sure its vertical too. In the OLDEN DAYS i wouldnt have noticed it so much, but now I am constantly swapping 650b with 700 wheels on the same bike, with discs, and its a real shit.
Anyone try Campy 12 / jtek 2 / SRAM dangler as per the latest multibong Radibike?
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@EndpointBraden has repeatedly and emphatically espoused the jtek sram collabo.
yeah right up there 
the question is did Campy derp up the 12s shifting with variable cable pull?
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oops. misunderstood and mis-threaded. carry on.
seems like when campy got to 11s they had a harder time making it stupid. once shimano 11 came out we put a lot of shimano cassettes on otherwise campy drivetrains
Installed a Tubus rear rack on the Lorry. Put it on the lower mounts where the fenders stays are mounted so it’s not so high. The fender stays are now sandwiched between the frame and the rack, which probably isn’t ideal.
I guess what loses me is What jtek and I why do you need a jtek sram to sram or am I missing something
exact actuation to x-actuation i think. they named those two separate cable pulls with completely distinct and not easily confused names, thankfully.
installed my first set of teen hearse tires. needed several additional wraps of tape (the slightly thinner tesa, thanks @Jacobell i only used 2/3 of the roll you “lent” me).
two hot takes:
- maybe rims are just a little bit too small. after all, we’ve seen floating ERDs related to worn tooling, it’s conceivable that aluminum extruding would wear
tooling quicker than rubber molding but i literally do not know hardly anything in that realm - these tires are not “tubeless” in the way we have become accustomed to and literally every other tubeless tire i’ve put on these rims (kom i23) have seared with one wrap of standard tubeless tape and a floor pump
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^^^^
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Yes - and the tendency of slant parallelogram derailleurs to move side-to-side in the bumpy stuff is exacerbated on clutched derailleurs. There’s a big ol’ damper on the pulley cage spring, but there is NOT a damper on the parallelogram spring.
And, say, if you ride gnarly DH and basically just sit in the small cog all the time, all that side-to-side motion goes into hammering on the high limit screw every time you hit a bump…
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yeah Shimano got completely blindsided by SRAM’s 1x12 stuff. IIRC the XTR/XT/SLX stuff was never really intended to shift an 11-46 cassette, Shimano assumed anyone who needed more range than 1x with the 11-42 would just run the 11-40 and a double. Or a triple! Because Shimano still offered triples with the XTR and XT 11-speed groups! (I have never actually seen one in the wild)
The 11-46 Shimano cassette was a panic product in response to SRAM Eagle; literally the 11-42 with the big cog swapped out. A huge ugly 24% jump from the 37T to the 46T bailout cog, and you could tell that the derailleurs were struggling.
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This is specifically why I run the SunRace 11-46 cassette.
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Had that exact cassette on my 11-spd SLX setup. The dangler really didn’t like to shift to the 46 unless it was already in the 37 and would mostly just jam if you tried to shift over multiple gears to it. I didn’t mind the percentage difference because I wanted a lower low more than anything else.
Enjoying dangler chat, thanks folx for sharing all this info.
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Now I’m thinking that an 11-speed (M5100) Deore dangler would be better than my current M7000 SLX unit (and still be compatible with the M7000 shifter).
And this has got me rethinking moving my spare M7000 bits over to the mtn bike for a 1x “upgrade” from the 2x10 SRAM whatever that’s already on it. It’s a zero cost thing, other than time.
Im a fan of the Sunrace too. Well, I was when I was on 1x. Probably should flip it.