It’s way better. Pulled a M785(?) 11s XT long cage with a goat link off a bike for a customer and put the new M5100 on there with the 11-51 cassette. Difference was huge. The 1x/2x Shimano Shadow danglers are just bad by comparison.
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Wired up the rear light on the Lorry and added connectors and a Y cable to send power to it and the headlight. Channeled my inner Peter White and ran the wiring inside 1/4” irrigation line along the rear rack. Rear wiring is temporary while I look for a four conductor cable so I can use the brake light function of the rear light. I’ll poke a hole in the rack to run the wiring internally then.
My wiring isn’t quite to the level of Squirrel’s and I didn’t do a great job of matching the male and female sides for the best fit, so they have a little bare metal showing as a treat.
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I did the partsbin shuffle and swapped the fancy parts (WI cranks and tubeless rear wheel) off my Schwinn in preparation to sell it and put them on my Voodoo Clyde because I love it.
Now I just gotta find time to build the dynamo tiny wheel and we’ll really be in business!
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Started working on the great switcheroo of 2020. Need wider bars on the tcx. Have 44cm deda bars on the storck and another set of them in 42cm.
Pull the tape (it’s a shame the new tape just went into the trash), bars, levers on the tcx.
Pull the tape on the storck AND WHAT DO I FIND?
Yup, not using those.
Now brand new bike is just sitting all sad-like w/o bars.
Ordering zipp sl-80 bars today.
Katu got unnecessary new v-brakes yesterday. New arms were just enough shorter compared to stock to need to lower the front fender by one rubber VO washer.
The univega road bike got a full carbon fork.
The bmx bike got pegs put back on.
The trials bike had the rubbing front disc ignored.
I swapped the rear shift cable and the chain chasing down some friction in my shifting. Things felt good in the stand. Thought I was done.
Went to ride to work the other morning. Chain just SKIPPED. I guess I but a few too many km’s on the chain…
Had to go back inside, at 6 am, dig the old chain out of the trash, wipe off all the basement floor dust I had just swept into it and put it back on. First try and I missed a bit and threaded the chain around one of the pulley cage things on the dangler so shifting was worse than ever. Undid quick link, fixed it. Fuck.
Ever since I took those DT cable stops to get my wife’s bike rolling quickly I’ve been chasing trouble.
Ordered a new Ultegra cassette and correct (steel) DT stops. This better solve it.
Anyone need some cable stops for an aluminum frame? I have 2 sets…
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Lorry got a 42T BMX chainring (because “mountain” 4x104 rings seem not to really be a thing) in place of the stock 40T for some gearing marginal gains. Also, some small Acepac bottle bags zip tied to the HT/TT for small storage options.
Hybrid Sam got some VO Milan bars in place of the Dimension high-rise bars, less chunky grips, saddle angle adjusted, and fingerprints cleaned off the fenders.
Day/ruiner got the levers rotated up a bit to hopefully improve my wrist angle on the hoods, and rewrapped with the dirty orange tape. Gotta at least make it look like it gets ridden.
After watching the Dennis Enerson video I felt inspired to do some grinds. He makes it look so much easier than it actually is.
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Installed my headset converter on the cdale Flash and then did the scariest thing I think I’ve ever done. Green loctited the Press fit to BSA adaptor into the frame. Apparently it bonds at 10 mins. At this point I noticed that my frame is 73mm and the adaptor is 68mm… Smacked it in some more to center it. Hopefully an externally cupped BB will find enough thread. They don’t seem to do a 73mm in the one-piece adaptor style.
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I probably would have cut it in the middle then put each half in. You can always knock it out and clean an re loctite it.
wouldnt that defeat the alignment properties it might offer?
They do… but you’ll be fine. Most threaded B
mtb bottom brackets are designed to work with 68 as 73mm shells.
I guess it’s more that the threads are recessed into the frame more than they should be, so less threads from the BB will hook up. Not tried a BB yet to see.
Right… but most mtb bsa bbs have a 2.5mm spacers for each side and a longer threaded section.
It’s the same as putting a mtb crank on any other bike with a 68mm shell.
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Installed a bash guard I bought more than two years ago on the mountain bike I haven’t ridden in three.
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Pulled one side of the BB off my Tallboy to see if there were going to be any problems with installing a similar one on the Cdale Flash that I put the PF to BSA adaptor in. Sweet as. Stuck a 168mm wide Power saddle on the OPEN. Rode 100 metres. Too early to tell anything. Looks like a cartoon saddle.
