During the wet months, I reapply every ride. When it’s drier, I’ll do it about every 4 hrs of riding.
I started using Squirt after seeing the chain lube article because 1) it was available and 2) it has a good $/km value. I’ve been running a long-term test with CN-HG701+Squirt, but so far it’s been better than the ceramic lube as far as chain longevity.
I throw the chain in jar with degreaser, then into the ultra sonics, then rinse it thoroughly and back into another jar with molten MSW and then back into the ultrasonics.
…every few hundred miles.
I love how muc-off smells, even moreso than tri-flow
It’s a v yummy smell
“Team of experts” sticker placed on seattube. Didn’t notice a huge difference in ride quality…maybe put the other six on the toptube? Also new rubber. New cassette, chain, and big ring coming hopefully soon but I accidentally ordered them from Spain so it might take a while. Keeping deadender 8speed Campy group alive on this bike for some reason.
Edit: one day I’ll get around to cutting the steerer tube.
I cut the housings a bit too long when re-cabling so I bought a longer stem
C3 is my jam. Chain stays relatively clean, and durability is extremely good for a dry-style lube.
Figured something out that might be useful:
new fork, hose runs internal for about four or five inches (for aerodynamics or looks or some fucking reason) above the caliper. I could not for the life of me get the hose through the top hole. It was an open space, but there was a little lip that you had to get past, which is basically impossible (?)
I tried a magnet but no dice, then I dust busted some thread through the holes.The thread came through, but, get this: the inner lip on the upper hole was sharp, so it cut through the thread. I would like to pause to invite the reader to imagine the radical frustration that this causes once it’s happened a few times.
What worked was poking a spoke through from above and then taping the hose to the spoke. Started pulling, got it over and past the lip, and off I went to probably cut the hose too short and have to start all over again.
This is probably all 101 level internal hose run setting, but whatever, it helped me
Deburr the fucking hole. One of these in the appropriate size works great. Noga RC1000 Mini Reversible Deburring Tool Holder Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001VXZNLQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_0PF9FDTQS4B88WNPGAKC?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
i absolutely love how odd a tandem looks with no stoker bars and how it takes a second to notice what’s wrong
That’s the special Noodle pillow. It looks almost exactly like the real thing when you put it on the sofa.
I plopped a seatpost collar on the frame turpentine(who I apparently can’t tag in posts?) built for me. Then I looked at all the crap that would go into installing the internally routed dropper and decided that I didn’t have the energy.
Oh yeah good luck typing that out. Very deep into the unicode table
it’s easy, just type @ j o r d a n and boom: @turpentine!
So this is happening. I don’t have a ton of plans for this bike other than “rad basket townie”, therefore I am officially requesting input from Tarck Consulting LLC re: “what would tarck do.”
Probably going to end up with v-brakes of some sort, as these rims are a tad wide for the cantis and, you know. Has dyno. I have some chrome fenders that I may or may not use.
Got a preview of my summer nights, trials riding and some photos.
+1 for v-brakes, if you’ve got flat bar stuff happening it’s a no brainer. Fenders are also a no brainer unless they’re big heavy wald models and/or you want to max tire size (with that basket it might not be a bad idea)
Overall looks great.
I’m on the fence about fenders b/c I’m not sure if they’ll fit with 47s, and it hasn’t rained in Denver since 2018 (that might be a lie)
