just such an expensive tool for such an infrequent event. i have the park press but i want to make something more compact- i don’t really do it very often and it’s a big heavy tool
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you should give yours to that other guy that’s up there beating his headtube with a rock
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My headset just went right in with finger pressure. My bike does have a weird wiggle when the brakes are applied, why do you ask?
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the catch is i would probably keep the drifts
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It’s literally too big to be stored in my bike tools tool chest.
I could buy a bigger tool chest, but the real solution is dense, walkable and bikeable neighborhoods with tool libraries, co-ops, or a bike shop on every corner.
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that’s where some threaded rod comes in. i’ll suffer through using a wrench on it sometimes. they make quick release nuts
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this makes me wonder if you can just rent a bearing press from an auto parts store to do this job. Wonder if this would work https://www.autozone.com/loan-a-tools/loaner-ball-joint-press-adapter/p/great-neck-ball-and-u-joint-press-set/557231_0_0
maybe if its the right size- headset presses cover a very wide range of lengths
This discussion reminds me of the reason the bike co-op in Atlanta was originally started. It was all about rarely used tools. Not a headset press, but a crank puller. A bunch of us were learning to work on our own stuff and realized we each needed a crank puller that we didn’t want to buy. Instead of each buying one, we decided to create a centralized tool library. Within a year or so that had grown into a volunteer run, free/sliding scale diy workshop space.
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Now I have bikes with press-fit BBs and integrated headsets.
It is more reasonable to use a proper tool to install headsets. If you make sure the cups go in evenly and don’t hammer on them it’s fine, wouldn’t recommend this to inexperienced mechanics though.
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Just for completeness, I recently learned that the top cap does also contribute not-insignificantly to keeping the front end together.
This was during that tour I took of Argonaut. They have a full set of test jigs and test not only their own stuff but also a sample of any component they put on a bike. Their engineer said they found that during front end testing (I recall it was front impact i.e. riding straight into a concrete barrier) that the top cap absolutely contributed, as they had tested it both ways.
Big caveats to all this of course as I don’t know which fork and stem brand(or several) this applies to, and I assume we’re talking all carpet fiber parts not sure they tested steel or whatever. But a nice footnote when the discussion comes up.
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I know top caps contribute because I have a very cool 3d printed top cap that unfortunately doesn’t contribute quite enough
If I swap back to a solid one everything holds just fine
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id assume this is why the bmx steerer lock thingy exists. but also i know sometimes people go to great lengths to overcorrect and miss the true answer along the way. either way i intend to keep my topcap on
Huh. Maybe this is part of the reason I ruined the headset on my bike that I ran without a top cap so I could potts mod the brake cable (and dyno wire) up the steerer
Another bmx race. I’m definitely faster now than I was when I was younger.
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I bought one of these and a few select extra drifts, been awesome and would recommend. Also, fits in my toolbox unlike that Park monstrosity.
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The silly french bike I just received has a threaded headset adjustment (adjusted by pin spanner) coupled with a threadless stem and a top cap that just really a bar end plug. Wonder what kind of mess it will turn out to be.