I am hemming and hawing over what to do to my mountain bike this winter and I am pretty sure I am going to bigger tires. Currently on 2.25 knobby nics. I was thinking 2.8 but your post is making me lean more toward 2.6 realm.
To be fair, I did go from what I’d consider to be a pretty middling tread pattern to probably the closest-we’ll-ever-get-to-consensus best front tire tread pattern ever (Minion DHF), so I’m not sure how much is the width and how much is just liking the tread pattern.
But yeah, my impression of a lot of 2.8s was that they are all a little too lightweight in the sidewall because all the manufacturers figured (probably not incorrectly) that once they crossed the 1kg mark, buyers who were on the fence about plus tires would get scared off. I think a sidewall that big and thin is just too squirmy.
When I wear these out or get tired of them, I probably want to try a 2.6, at least in the front.
The straight line braking traction on the 2.8s is fucking amazing though.
I got a rear flat on my red Schwinn on my way to work this morning. I found the puncture and tried to let the sealant pool there and stop it up, but it was a no go even though the puncture seemed nearly microscopic.
I broke the bead and discovered that there was only the barest residue of orange seal remaining in the tire.
I put a tube in and pumped it up. Then my bike rode like lumpy crap the rest of the way to work!
Is that just how tubes feel? The wheel is true and round, but now it feels like there’s a hop once a rotation. Did I just forget how crappy tubes ride?
Yeah, tubes feel like shit in big tires, but you might also have sealant pooling up/drying up in weird ways around the tube.
I’m trying to figure out the best way to make my commuter tubeless. My options for fat, slick 26" tires that aren’t balleur but are reliably tubeless-able are limited. A few years ago, I successfully got my wire bead big apples to seat tubeless with a Stan’s conversion kit with rubber strips and shit. Might try that again since I still have all those things. Plus I don’t work an hourly job anymore so being late to work because my janky tubeless setup didn’t work right is NBD.
I’ve got these Maxxis guys:
https://www.bikeinn.com/bike/maxxis-tread-lite-kevlar-27.5-x-2.10-tubeless-ready/135926657/p?utm_source=google_products&utm_medium=merchant&id_producte=2353555&country=us&gclid=CjwKCAjw2MTbBRASEiwAdYIpsSxCkXcohdoPAVHLqib6FZGzoRS7X8i5VADy4cp1tmfwkCPVeohe-RoCTyYQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
They’re pretty OK I think.
I attempted to install some Surly upper rack mounts to stabilize the porteur rack on my basketbike. First side went on just fine. On the other side, the bolt threads for the p-clamp got all fucked up and now I can’t tighten or loosen the stupid bolt, so now I need to cut that bolt off and try again. But still, more stable than it was before.
All of that was so that I could ride to the grocery store 0.5 mile away Sunday morning. Instead I drove to a different store 4 miles way.
yes and no. I’ve found the sealant makes things mighty sticky and if you don’t wipe it out before putting a tube in, the tire can inflate sorta knotted up, if that makes any sense. So on the one hand yeah it sucks more than tubeless obv, but it will suck even more if that tube doesn’t seat evenly inside sticky old tire.
After reading this I went and checked all my clipless shoes to verify the cleat position. Discovered that my most frequently used pair of Giros had the cleats in the center so I slid them alllll the way back.
Feeling significantly more comfortable and strong on the bike the past couple days, thanks for the reminder to check this.
Picked it up from FedEx. It arrived Saturday instead of Monday, but I put a hold on it since we were gone until midnight-thirty last night.
Started to unpack it. Dude was creative about fitting dh bike into smaller box. But for all the care in some places, he didn’t remove or protect the endcaps of the front hub. Only lost one, but other was in the bottom of the box. Two holes poked through (cassette a smidge, and the nds of the front hub. Then of course nobody has the dt swiss dust cap for the 20mm end cap.
Ordered lighter coils for sup’s dh bike. She was a trooper and rode that thing for four days to get a feel for it. Still doesn’t love it (not as plush as one would want), but proud of her for putting up with it. Checked her fork spring and found some oil in there. Kinda worried, because only thing in there should be grease put on the coil itself.
Domain fork right? Probably due for a service since dh-bros really have a tendency to run shit completely into the ground because #SENDINGITFORDABOIIIIIS and no wrench know-how…
Oil might be in there to make it ramp up,supplement the coil with lower air vol?
Boxxer RC. According to tech docs, light grease on the shrink wrap is all that is needed on the coil. So, the kid probably just ran it into the ground. I guess I need to take it in.
Backed out the preload a bit on the rear and it feels a bit better, but still oversprung for her. So, hopefully rear shock will be a little softer for her soon enough. Whole goal was going in with a small investment to see if she liked it (as her teammates have). Currently not sold on it, and enjoys riding stumpy at parks more.
on the commuter
new cantis, levers, cables, housing
new pedals
dyno wheel
waiting on
handlebars
shift levers
front rack to drop my basket a few inches
it’s gonna be siccc
Boulder basket cru checking in.
Lol reminds me of a friend that bought a used dh bike. when he rebuilt the fork he found the coil was spaced with an old golf grip #justdhbrothings
We weren’t expecting a whole lot for 1k used bike (besides the zee brakes, which are great (she likes shimano lever feel/throw)), but I think a rebuild is necessary.
Then I was kinda let down that a solo air spring upgrade is only $70 more than the coil itself after I ordered it. Guess it is the charger damper that is the bigger cost difference between Boxxer RC and world cup. I will just need to squeeze the service in 5-6 some weekday since the service manager usually leaves before close and a workstand would open up. Alternatives are sundays, but I am usually doing stuff on Sundays.
Considering it still has the gray seals on there, I imagine they haven’t done much to it (assuming the black 35mm ones are kinda universal and supplied in the replacement service packs).
Repacked sup’s rear hub.
To no one’s surprised, as a dh bike, one of the cones was #sopitted.
But, even in 2018, doing it for the first time in 7ish years, I didn’t lose a ball bearing (one side was full loose, other was in a cage). Feels a bit better. Shimano zee, you crazy.
(ordered a charger damper since we all know that ish is awesome, and will install Thursday. Probably service other side then, too).
Since I am the only one working on bikes, I guess, here are the lulzy things done to sup’s bike.
Ordered a smaller coil spring, but was perplexed when I couldn’t remove it. Turns out someone managed to get the far too long 300# spring on there.
It took bike shop owners hydraulic press to free it since they don’t have any fancy coil compressor jawn.
Size difference between the wrong and correct length springs.
I replaced my 100mm stem with a 90mm and moved my saddle forward. Dang mountain bikes w steep seat tubes have me using quads instead of hamstrings on the regular - transitioning to non-mountain bike with slack(er) STA feels weird man.
This is so going to fuck with my Flickr feed.
Took it on a night ride with wet gravel and I’ve never felt slower than I did on that ride.
The bike is looking much better dirty.
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Apparently I’ve been gaslighting myself with gradually decreasing braking performance, because I adjusted the pads and it stops again. IE I’m an idiot.