the 130mm frame doesn’t have a disc tab on it yet
They used to, not shown on their current site tho.
Whether these listings reflect actual stock held is another story:
http://www.prowheelbuilder.com/white-industries-mi6-cx-130-rear-polished-iso-6-bolt-disc-hub.html
http://www.wheelbuilder.com/white-industries-cx11-disc-rear-cyclocross-hub.html
hey hey hey , I’m counting chickens / putting the cart before the horse / booking future profits here.
[quote=Viggen]
Since I’m gonna have him braze disc mounts on (going 650B) it he could cold set it to 135 as well.[/quote]
This is the correct answer. fucka 130 disc.
Sometimes I hate reading Tarck on my phone. Deets missed for days
He didn’t mention that until later, so don’t feel bad.
I was confused as to what bike he had or would have that had a 130 disc frame.
Or get this perfectly fine 130 spaced Novatec hub for cheap.
I built up some WTB KOMs to DT 350s for the Endpoint a couple of months ago and installed tires on them so they wouldn’t get destroyed in my bike mess. I picked them up to admire them over the weekend and noticed that the spoke tension was really low. I went over to my buddy’s house where I had built them and, using the same tensiometer that I used when I built them, found that the tension was consistently about 25% lower than I built them to.
Do these rims drop a lot of tension when the tire is installed, or was I just drunk when I built them?
I know Stan’s rims used to drop a lot of tension when the tire was inflated (maybe they still do, I just haven’t built one up in about 4 years), but I never had (or at least never noticed) that problem with the WTB Frequency rims, and I built up a few wheels with those rims.
Every rim drops tension, some more than others. I haven’t measured the delta on those rims.
yeah, I know there’s always a little, but this seemed particularly pronounced. I might have just done a shitty job on the first pass, though.
KOMs drop tension a lot more than the Frequency Team
[quote=Endpoint]Or get this perfectly fine 130 spaced Novatec hub for cheap.
http://www.bdopcycling.com/Hubs-D352SB-10.asp[/quote]
I had a 130 spaced Redline Conquest Disc-R for a while. Was all set to buy this and found a $40 hybrid wheel on ebay that solved my problem.
Yeah, my KOMs dropped way way more than any other wheels I’ve built. I had to fully retension/true them once the tires were mounted.
What’s the current 700c tubeless road rim?
Boyd?
Belgium Plus?
Easton R90?
Pacenti Forza? (I happen to like them)
Instagram says The Hydra, but Belgium+ seems to be doing the trick
Rim brake? Disc brake? Did you ask on Bikeforums?
DT RR411 is pretty sweet.
As much as I love the Belgium+ I’ve come to the conclusion that it’s overkill for 23-28mm tires. The 411 is light, offset extrusion and ships with washers (and alloy nips if that’s your thing).
It’s also less $$$$.
Builds up nice, especially for front disc use. Spoke tension is about as close to equal between sides as you’re going to get on a 100mm spaced disc hub.
Ditto the DT recommendations, and on a budget, it’s impossible to beat the Alex Adventure 2.
I re-laced a new wheel 4 times last night. New rim, spokes & nips but reusing SON dynamo hub.
This is my first time attempting a wheel build with used hubs and I’ve read in the literature that you should always line up the flange scars from previous spokes instead of cutting new scars in the opposite direction. I finally figured out how to get one side of the hub to match scars, laced it up then realized that the other flange did not match previous lacing!
I looked over the entire wheel again and compared to other wheels in the house to make sure it matched.
WTF, is that possible? Did the wheelbuilder before me screw up or do you think I did something wrong?
Is the matching scars warning a little overblown or should I try to resolve?
Pictures please.
I recommend matching the indents on the hub if you care about the wheel.