Are you trying to line up markings on the hub with the valve hole? Perhaps it didn’t before. Maybe a 2x/3x mix or something? Maybe an asymmetric pattern though unlikely for a front wheel? You can sometimes find stupid lacing patterns that arise when people want to re-use spokes so anything’s possible.
The matching scars warning may or may not matter. If you have a hub previously laced 3x and switch to radial, it’s bad news. Switch 3x to 2x, maybe not a big deal. Danger will depend on the hub (e.g. flange thickness, amount of material, etc). I avoid the ambiguity by re-lacing in the same pattern and I’ve always been able to figure it out though I’ve built hundreds of wheels so easy for me to say. Sometimes a hub has been laced multiple ways already, in which case I lace in the pattern with most severe deformation and call out the issue to the customer so I’m not on the hook down the road.
Take a break and come back to it later IMO. You should be able to see if you’re on the right track within the first few spokes.
I thought machine-built wheels did not build to the same pattern as hand-built. Something about how the machine works. On modern hubs I think it’s sort of okay (obvs not ideal) to ignore the indents. Again depends on abuse/ flange thickness/ whatever.
For matching deformation on a used hub, I like to figure out which hole had the key spoke in it, use it for the key spoke again and go from there.
8 driveside trailing spokes
8 non-driveside trailing spokes
8 driveside leading spokes
8 non-driveside leading spokes
got an rr460db rim for christmas, so just ordered all z pieces for a rebuild of this white industries front. man dt swiss makes it easy! they put the ERD right on the rim. hopefully this stuff shows up before the weekend.
I measured the Alex Adventurer 2 rims that I’m going to build for my Schwinn and for the first time in my whole history of wheel building, the published ERD was exactly the same as my measurement down to the millimeter.
if you lace using the gerd schraner method from art of wheelbuilding, you can pretty easily change which direction you put the spokes through, to match the hub scars
Thanks for the feedback/suggestions.
Took some photos last night after setting up the truing stand and getting tools ready.
Turns out all of my 3 relacing errors got jumbled in my brain.
The issue is that one flange matches the scars while the other seems to be one hole off.
In the process of trying to get one side to line up I laced the wheel opposite (key to right of valve) of what my two books suggest (key to left of valve). Not sure if that matters as long as you continue to mirror the lacing in the instructions.
Because you reversed the key spoke, you have attached spokes to the rim in a “backwards” way. If your rim is directionally-drilled, it’s probable you have introduced more stress at the spoke-nipple interface. If your rim is center-drilled or directionally-drilled in the uncommon way (old rims, some French, some Dutch, etc), then no problem.
Here is what you need to do conceptually although it will be easier to take it completely apart. First clock the rim so your taped spoke is one position further from the valve hole. Then you will have fixed the “backwards” problem but created a non-parallel problem under the valve hole. Clock the spokes on the NPS (non-power side) by one position, both at the hub and the rim (leaving the PS spokes in place). Then you will have fixed the non-parallel problem and lined up the scars. You can confirm or disprove this theory before doing anything by verifying the lesser scars on the flange insides will line up as well.
Squirrel, you are in a little zone of variation that I like to use to get hub labels lined up. Making the key spoke ds or nds can get that one detail perfect, but it can also fuck up either rim handedness or in your case, spoke indentations. And Sheldon says to only do ds keys.
But yeah tldr, my intuition is that your key spoke is on the wrong side and currently is pointing the wrong way. Do you see your current key spoke? Have a look at the one coming into the rim into the very next hole down from the valve. It is a spoke running parallel to the key but from the opposite hub flange. This is now called the key spoke’s buddy, and it is the role that your current key spoke needs to be in. So it is one spoke hole away from where it needs to go. And so the whole wheel needs to be redone, both sides.
Warning : this is off the top of my head and may be insane
Woo, Finally got the wheels relaced and everything is perfect except for the label alignment.
I also made a terrible discovery after initially fixing everything. Upon closer inspection the Pacenti Brevet rims have a very subtle alternate drilling unlike the Pacenti PL23. Dammit! Had to completely relace again & take that into consideration. Wish they had put some arrow stickers on rim bed to tip off the builder like Light Bicycle does with their rims.
I can’t complain though, I learned all the hard lessons on this build but feel like I can deal with all the lacing considerations on the next wheelset.
Thanks for feedback.
