wheel building / discussion thread

Have any of you built Ryde Andra’s before? They seem to have a good reputation, but I have no experience with the brand. I’m doing a Euro order and need a set of 36h 559’s for my tandem project. Was going to go with the Adventurer 2 but they’re harder to get cheap in Canada and I’m not sure I need to tubeless the tandem. Or do I?

I have built them. Heavy as hell — use when durability is a major concern.

Are there any good deals on 27.5" rims in 23-30mm widthway right now? If not I’ll probably just get Easton ARCs.

Also are there any decent rear hubs (12x142 spacing, centerlock preferred) in the $100 price range that aren’t super loud?

Don’t know about deals on rims, but pick and choose out of any of these hubs:



The Deore XT is crazy cheap from Kraütland

I don’t know about deal, but the Astral Wanderlust I just built up (25mm outer, 21mm inner) are offset which is nice. Weight was good, building them was easy. Tension loss wasn’t noticeable. Setting up tire was a breeze (Gravel King SK). Mounted them by hand, no lever and didn’t preinstall with tube first, just compressor.

Not super loud imo, but louder than shimano. You can always put some heavier oil on the pawls to quiet them down. I’ve been really pleased with this hub.

me too

you’ll be very happy with a DT350

Fukka Shimano thruaxle hub.

Because of no endcap swapping or something else?

Exploding freehubs.
Cup and come bearings are dumb for mtb.

https://bikerumor.com/2018/04/29/soc18-boyd-cycling-adds-tubeless-tubular-disc-brake-wheels-for-road-cyclocross-gravel/

only other road rims I’ve seen this wide are the Enve AR set

Few shartq’s here related to spoke length calculation using various online tools…

  1. When I input “flange diameter” should I really be putting the PCD of the spoke holes?
  2. When I input center-to-flange distance do I measure to the inside, middle or outside of the flange?
  3. Should I generally round up, down or to the nearest integer when the tool spits out a number?
  1. Flange diameter is PCD (also called SHC).
  2. Different manufacturers do this differently. I measure to the center. Try entering this value differently and notice the differences in output.
  3. This depends on how you define/measure ERD.

How you round (up or down) will depend on the accuracy of your measuring tools and the calculator you use. I suggest finding a calculator you like and sticking with it. If your results are off, quantify it and make note for next time. Over the years I’d had to tweak my choices based on a lot of experience using the same spoke rods and calc.

what I generally do before ordering spokes is send eric a dozen emails.

Also these: http://fse.bike/product/g40-30x-disc-tubeless-gravel-cyclocross/

I like Nox for most of the riding people talk about here. Doesn’t have the higher pressure limit, but weighs under 400g. I’ve built with them and they are plenty strong and all that.

http://noxcomposites.com/citico

Brok a spok on the way home yesterday. Just before the elbow, not at it. I’m pretty sure i got a bad batch from ebay sapim guy because this happens now and again on that wheelset. the sad thing is, im used to it, have spares on my chainstay and can replace a spoke quicker than changing a flat. Ill order some dts soon…