The best way is probably to not buy stolen bikes.
I was able to remove 99% of the paint on an old Fisher, from the spray paint to the original paint, using Jasco, wire brushes, and a lot of patience. I would have saved hours if I had it blasted, though.
light sand and a stripper, mineral spirits for help with clean up. wear gloves and a respirator if its smelly.
Nah, there was nothing sketchy about it, just someone’s poorly conceived project. I have access to a bead blaster that I’ve stripped frames in before, but I’m hoping to preserve the factory paint underneath this one.
its going to be a lot of labor to do it right. like, box out a whole saturday, get yourself a 12 pack of lacroiz and then a 6 pack of beer.
what frame?
Oh that’s not happening, unless you have nearly unlimited time and patience, or hire an art restorationist.
It’s an '87 Miyata 712. The original paint and decals look to be in fine shape, the spray paint is thin and hardly adhering in parts, I can scrape it of with a fingernail. It has a 6-speed 105 group on it in great shape. I want to fix it up for a pal, or as a loaner.
Welp, maybe I’ll just leave it alone and take care of the slight overspray on some of the components.
Might be able to remove it with a plastic putty knife or similar if the spray job is that bad?
That’s what I was hoping, but thought there might be something out there to gently soften the weaker spray paint to make the job easier.
Come to think of it, I have some citrus based paint stripper around here somewhere. I bet a short application of that stuff could work.
and a nylon-bristled brush
Easy off oven cleaner will take off spray paint, other things too. I’ve used it to remove spray paint from cars while preserving the original paint underneath.
i mean, graffiti removal (a basic substance) will work
Tarck friends: what was the generic brand of those pnw dropper posts we were making fun of for a while there?
Thanks!
Thanks for the tips y’all, I’ll post some before and after’s once the after happens.
Anyone have any experience with these cranks or know if a better/alternative option?
I am finally going to put one of those cool Grin Tech kits on my cargo bike and planning on trying a torque-sensing square taper bottom bracket to control the motor (instead of throttle). It senses both speed and pressure.
Unfortunately the cargo bike doesn’t have a square taper BB/crankset right now.
Looking for these qualities in a crankset:
- MTB BB width
- 170mm crank arm
- Wide Triple, maybe 28/38/48 (cuz it would be nice to contribute when the motor is active yet still have some really low gears if battery dies and I need to climb a hill with all that extra weight)
- Black to match the bike
- Chain guard would be fun
- Weight doesn’t matter
This Shimano Acera FC-M361 seems to be the ticket and its only $30
I also like this Shimano Acera FC-M391 with a black guard a little better than the clear plastic but $50 instead. Bonus is the wider 26/36/48t rings
Here are the torque sensors if you’re interested: http://www.ebikes.ca/learn/pedal-assist.html
Probably going with the 73mm / 120mm version: http://www.ebikes.ca/documents/TDCMGuide.pdf
Do you expect you’ll often use the 48 on an e-assist cargo bike?
Not sure but I have a bunch of flat highway sections on my 25 mile commute that I figured I could contribute to.
The goal isn’t to make this a electric moped while my legs stay idle but rather to make my cargo bike a feasable choice for commuting at a faster pace while I get a comparable physical workout going ~20mph.