WW-ish tarck build any thoughts?

If I wanted to save a few lbs in the drivetrain, saddle, wheels, brakes dept where should I look to find solid info about how much each product weighs etc.

braykzR4pussies.com says if you’re building a WW fixed build, no brakes is your lightest option.

weight weenies forum


Don’t do it, bro. Weight-weenieism is addictive. I’m constantly counting grams now. :frowning:

Im a fat 195lbs and want to get back down to 180. That being said I dont want to put something together with super low count wheels. I also plan on completing a few Road Centuries & Dualathlons this year which may require an actual brake.

I have a 13 pound tarck bike.

WW stuff:


Selle Italia SLR - 135g - Pretty comfy actually–but only with chamois shorts. And the weights vary. I have one that actually weighs 180g. I was pissed when I weighed it.
Specialized Toupe - 175g - Love this saddle
Fizik Antares - I’ve heard good things about this.


Thomson Masterpiece with Ti bolts - That should get you around 140g. I also have a KCNC Ti seatpost, but I have to admit that the clamp seems a bit sketchy.


Syntace F99 - Best bang for the book. Around 100g for the shorter version


Dimensions hubs to Open Pros or KinLin Niobium rims. DT Rev spokes.
Low-Flange Miches are also pretty light.
American Classic hubs are REALLY light, but pricy.
Go with a road build for the front wheel. Speedcific, AC, Novatec, and White Ind all make super light front road hubs.


Cross Lever + TRP920 - Best mix of performance and weight


Cranks are tough. If you really want to lighten up, go with a road crank. Otherwise, the Dura-Ace 7710 cranks/bb setup are pretty light. But if you really want to save weight, you have to go with a Ti Spindle bb. Phils are pricey. Token makes an affordable 111 spindle ISO one (Good for 75s, Campy), and the TA Axix Light Pro is actually affordable as well.

Run a small 3/32" chainring. Campy Super Record is 144 BCD and prett light.


Michelin Pro 3 Race and Conti GP4000, IMO. The lighter tires just aren’t worth it. Schwalbe Ultremos and Maxxis Equipe Legeres are light as fuck, but they are strictly race tires.


You need an all-carbon fork. Easton EC90 SLX, Cannondale Slice Premium, and Aerus are all around 300g. AWESOME. Then get an Extralite Expander plug to save more gramzzz. And don’t forget the Extralite Delrin spacers and super light top cap/bolt combo.


At your weight, you’d probably want Speedplay X2s


It’s tough to get a lot of savings here, unless you go with the Easton EC90 SLX flat bar (99 grams!) or MonkeyLite risers (135 grams). The pricey Easton EC90 SLX road bars aren’t worth it, IMO.

awesome! thanks for all the info. Im probably going to end up with some fancy aluminum or carbon aerobars so I know I’ll be putting on weight there.
I saw a WW build on BF using a langster, but I wasnt to impressed with the results, considering the same guy assembled a complete road bike that was 2 lbs less

That BF post actually got me started on my WW path. The thing about his Langster build that was interesting to me was that aside from his chainring, nothing on his bike was too extraordinary. It didn’t look like he put THAT much money into it. The thing about road weight weenies, is that they save a ton of weight on their wheels and frames. There are super, super light road frames out there and many sub-1000g road wheelsets.

Oh, and if you really want to save weight on the wheels, maybe go tubular.


How much do those bad boys cost, Rusty?

you know, only 7.5k


QFT. Jason Racer 4 evr.

Does anyone know if Rolf makes a track wheelset?
I drool over these for my road bike:

shameless: if you want a used 3/32 48t sugino 75 ring in good condition, let me know.

also, i am going to build the heaviest bike i can. suggestions?

where can i get that rebar stuff time was talking about?


i have a carbon fork (with carbon steerer) and 16h front wheel on my fixed.

the rear wheel is a 32h surly to open pro. on a kilo. lawl.

but dammit my front end is light.


i have a carbon fork (with carbon steerer) and 16h front wheel on my fixed.

the rear wheel is a 32h surly to open pro. on a kilo. lawl.

but dammit my front end is light.[/quote]

Makes for easier wheelies.

You are starting down a dark path, beartrap. Be warned.

I’d stick to the wheel count of 2.

pick up a njs unicycle and add a zipp 404 on a profile hub.